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Routes in Tantalus Wall

Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Milk Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C0
Milk Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dean Hart, Randy Atkinson 1989
Page Views: 2,328 total · 17/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

Follow Tantalus Wall or Milk Run for 3 pitches to the halfway ledge, or rap in to the upper pitches. Move up right 15M and gain a superb dike trending right across the wall(9 Bolts, 10D). The next pitch, turning through the roof is long and sustained, following the dike the whole way(14 bolts, 11D). Climb a hollow flake (SKETCH!!!) to a belay(11D). A tricky start on the second to last pitch scares some away(11D). Save a #2 and #3 Camalot for the last pitch.

Location

At the start of the Yosemite Pinnacle, or milk run. Walk down.

Protection

Bolts and Gear. Always be prepared for rain and to bail.

Photos

Ross Morgan
Taos, NM
Ross Morgan   Taos, NM
Fantastic route. Did this route yesterday (January 26th) during a dry spell with great conditions. An excellent alternate start is described HERE. Jan 27, 2014
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11d
Simply awesome, so much fun. No PG sections on it I thought, aside from maybe the hollow flakes that go at 5.8 or so. I did a 3 points off lurch move at the crux, though my shorter friends, that are better at slab than I am, were able to tech it out statically. May 24, 2011

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