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Routes in Tantalus Wall

Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Milk Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C0
Milk Run T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Peter Croft, Craig Thomson 1982
Page Views: 1,992 total, 15/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A distinctive crack line from the base of the Tantalus wall using french ethics. 1st pitch: 11C. Take the left hand crack to the impeccable Yosemite Crack. Classic Ofwidths take you to the top of the 3rd pitch (10A). Easy 4th to Tantalus ledge (5.8). A small finger crack leads to the cedar tree (11B). Use AO bolts Tensioning to the base of the headwall crack system (11A+4pa). Climb two 5.11's to the top of the headwall. Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.

Location

Scramble up the bullethead gully right below the Yosemite pinnacle.

Protection

Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.
Some bolts.

Photos

We took a BD #4, #5 and #6 for this climb along with the standard doubles and extras in finger sizes. A #6 should almost definitely be included in the rack for this climb. You could probably leave the #4 at home and bring 2 x #5s and maybe 2x #6s.
The whole route is a burly number (possibly a sandbag) featuring razor-thin pinscars for your fingers (possibly good locks available for small-fingered ladies). Don't go up there expecting .11c Crime of the Century finger locks unless you know how to aid efficiently with slings lol.
Also, the crux of the .11b corner pitch below the headwall involves some difficult off width action which you probably won't hear about otherwise. Hence having an arsenal of #5s and #6s for the second to carry when not needed.
Awesome position. May 3, 2016