Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 9 pitches
FA: Jeremy Frimer, Kelly Franz
Page Views: 4,628 total · 47/month
Shared By: Jeremy Frimer on Dec 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


After a new first pitch, the route follows the best three pitches of Milk Run before following cracks above and a final dyke finish. The best pitches are the 10b and 10d fingery corners (3 and 4) of Milk Run, with the second one being the crux. The climbing on the crux pitch is exceptionally sustained on excellent finger locks and as much gear as one wants to place. The final real pitch (8) is a memorable walk sideways along a featured dyke.


Tantalus Wall. From the base of the wall, walk right, uphill, for 50m to a wooded platform. A V-crack marks the start.

Descent: walk off via the Bellygood Ledge trail.


rack fingers to #4 with triples or quadruples in the finger sizes for the blockbuster corner pitch. All but the corner pitches have at least one bolt. All anchors are bolted for rappel.
Nick Sullens
Nick Sullens   Yosemite
The first four pitches are rad, the rest, meh. The dirt ramp pitch is ugly and lame. The dike is good fun Feb 9, 2011
Squamish, BC
Hans   Squamish, BC
I thought that the route was fantastic. The ramp is lame, but the other new pitches are a lot of fun. 4 stars IMO. Jul 30, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
P1 - Straightforward to easy aiding
P2 - Odd pitch... Different kind of climbing but enjoyable
P3 - Nice corner crack with great locks and feet
P4 - Long, long, long corner crack. Some rests to be found but definitely need to punch it sometimes.
P5 - OK climbing in a corner to OK climbing on a face to OK climbing in a corner
P6 - Dirty climbing up a ramp, not very nice
P7 - Enjoyable up a chimney to some cracks and face holds. Pretty fun. Maybe hard for 10a given the length and tricky traverse.
P8 - Tricky traverse, not that much fun
P9 - Super easy slab to finish it up

All in all Milk Road has some fun pitches and some not so fun pitches. Worth doing, but it wouldn't be near the top of my list. Jul 1, 2015
Jens Ourom
Vancouver, BC
Jens Ourom   Vancouver, BC
Most pitches are lots of fun. You'd have to really, really love slab climbing to enjoy the final dike traverse, I'd say. Jul 13, 2015
  5.11a A0
  5.11a A0
I'm surprised by the negative opinions of the slab traverse at the end. I thought it was awesome and I'm not a big slab climber. Aug 2, 2018