All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Tantalus Wall

Wrist Twister

Name: Wrist Twister
Rating: 3.0

C2+

Routes in Tantalus Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cannabis Wall T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C2
	Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Great White North, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Milk Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C0
	Milk Run T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
	Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0
	Wrist Twister C2+
	Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Aid, 410 ft (124 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	49.6797, -123.1503
FA:	Paul Piro & Brian Norris, 1974
Page Views:	280 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Tyler Knowles on Feb 5, 2024
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

A classic climb in a stunning position, and likely the shortest aid route in Squamish. Wrist Twister is among the easiest aid routes (that are still aid routes and not free climbs) - it's a good next step after Cannabis Wall (C2, 5p). This route involves equal shares of old/new rivets, questionable fixed heads and fun hooking. Good pro and 3/8" bolts are infrequent enough to keep you on your toes the whole time. All anchors have bomber bolts.

P1: climb thoughtfully off the deck into a long, left-arching rivet ladder which ends at an intermediate 2-bolt anchor. Continue past this anchor leftwards into a traversing mini roof/flake then head up the face to the anchor. [C2, 45m]

P2: this pitch heads straight up the wall and is quite sustained. Lots of fixed heads (of varying quality), some rivets, and then fun hooking moves lead you to the anchor. A fall (while safe) might zipper a sizeable portion of the pitch, so try not to. [C2+, 35m]

P3: a reachy move off the belay takes you into the final brief crack system. A series of continuous rivets and hook moves lead you upwards to the dyke. Do some engaging hook moves along the dyke for a couple of meters then quest directly upwards through bat holes and rivets. [C2+, 45m]

The descent is very straight forward. Either rappel the route, or walk off, heading in the direction of Bellygood ledge for a few minutes before following a trail back to the chief descent trail.