Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Hammish Mutch, Mavis McCuaig, Glenn Woodsworth, 1965. Recleaned in 2011 by Bruce Kay
Page Views: 486 total · 9/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 23, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Nice dihedral climbing. We approached this by Jeremy Frimer's new 1st pitch of Milk Road. The book description is to start via Tantalus Wall 1st pitch with the 11c A0 move and cutting left below pinnacle to get on the left side. The Milk Road 1st P is nice and clean, 5 bolts at the 11d/ or 10b A0.
Pitch 2 after MR approach is short right traverse to sod climbing up a ramp that runs into the 10a corner of YPLS. There is a good new anchor at top of this pitch.
Pitch 3,10b, prepare for intense chimney with a bolt to gladly clip.

Location

far right end of Tantalus Wall. 2 double rope raps from top of Pinnacle heading for the Tantalus anchor on the right side of the pinnacle, or continue up Tantalus Wall route. Maybe single rope raps would work down the route, but I don't remember how far it is from top of pinnacle to the 10a bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". I did not have any bigger gear, not sure if it would help in the chimney, maybe nice to have big Bros.

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