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> Stawamus Chief
> Tantalus Wall
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Tantalus Wall
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Cannabis Wall T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c C2 |
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Cerberus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Great White North, The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Midnight Run T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Milk Road T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C0 |
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Milk Run T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0 |
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Tantalus Wall T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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Wrist Twister C2+ |
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Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6797, -123.1503 |
| FA: | Hammish Mutch, Mavis McCuaig, Glenn Woodsworth, 1965. Recleaned in 2011 by Bruce Kay |
| Page Views: | 1,443 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Feb 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Nice dihedral climbing. We approached this by Jeremy Frimer's new 1st pitch of Milk Road. The book description is to start via Tantalus Wall 1st pitch with the 11c A0 move and cutting left below pinnacle to get on the left side. The Milk Road 1st P is nice and clean, 5 bolts at the 11d/ or 10b A0.
Pitch 2 after MR approach is short right traverse to sod climbing up a ramp that runs into the 10a corner of YPLS. There is a good new anchor at top of this pitch.
Pitch 3,10b, prepare for intense chimney with a bolt to gladly clip.
Location
far right end of Tantalus Wall. 2 double rope raps from top of Pinnacle heading for the Tantalus anchor on the right side of the pinnacle, or continue up Tantalus Wall route. Maybe single rope raps would work down the route, but I don't remember how far it is from top of pinnacle to the 10a bolted anchor.
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