Type: Trad, Sport, 680 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Andrew Boyd, Damien Kelly, Klise Kelly, 2003
Page Views: 1,293 total · 9/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Climb to the top of Milk Run, step left to a line of 4 bolts. Climb an outstanding crackline that splits the wall (11C). Climb another pitch to a roof with a FP (11C/D). Traverse left on a Stenuous pitch (11B). Lead off bolts to a slanting dike with a small crack system (11D). Traverse to the belay, weird pro (11A). A short boulder problem on rope leads to the top of the final headwall (12A/B).

Location

Left of the Tantalus Wall.

Protection

gear to 3", some bolts.

Photos

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Have you done this route? There is A LOT lacking from the description, and the route definitely warrants a "heads up" or PG13/R rating in certain spots. The first pitch off of milk run has broken quite a few holds since the FA and is climbed in quite an annoying way that is hard to clip the bolts. The rest of that pitch climbs some loose and scary rock and has sections of scarce protection. Other pitches of note have some serious cruxy climbing above your gear. Be prepared to climb at the grade, with a full arsenal of micro gear and big hand gear for some upper pitches. Expect some dirt and grit as it does not get a ton of traffic. Sep 13, 2007
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c/d
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12c/d
Good climbing, thought the last pitch is hard for the grade I thought. It was in the high 80s and in the sun when I tried it, so I might be a little jaded. Much harder than any of the 12s I've done around Squampton...I actually broke a finger on the last pitch, locking a bit too hard. Thin fingers would take this down several notches as the final crack is continuous purple and the occasional blue metolius locks...too small for my sausages. May 24, 2011
Travis McClinchey
Squamish, BC
  5.12
Travis McClinchey   Squamish, BC
  5.12
Although the gear can be finicky at a few spots, I disagree with the comment that it is PG13/R. The only time you are more than a body length away from a solid piece, it is sub 5.9 terrain.
It is a fantastic route! Jul 31, 2014
I give it the PG13/R. Rock was loose on spaced pro after the 11c face. I thought it was good practice though. Nothing that should scare you away if you think you're ready for 12 microtips up higher! Feb 28, 2018