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Routes in Rat Cave

Boxcar S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boxtop S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Conquistador S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dorkboat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enchilada A La Carte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Held Down S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Horizontal Delite S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kings of Rat S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mavrick, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pissfire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
ShitFire S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sombrero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stiffler, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
TuffNerd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warm Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warmnerd S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Ryan Palo Apr 09
Page Views: 2,178 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A wildly overhanging route. It begins at the back of the cave. Move up on slacktites to marginal pinches. Horizontal climbing for the next 30 feet awaits. Opposition and kneebars are the key to pulling this section. Pulling the lip seems to give most people problems.

Protection

Sports long fixed draws

Photos

Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
A substantial amount of rock was removed from the lip of this route. The rock in question was beyond reinforcement. I have rerouted the line to the left exiting through the pod. I have completed all of the moves through this "new" section and now feel that the route is a bit easier(~13c). This route is still an open project. However, it needs a bit more work to preparing for a free attempt. There is a key hold just before the pod which absolutely needs to be glued. There still is not an anchor. I will do both of these things in the spring. If you are feeling motivated I can provide you the material to get the job done. Jan 29, 2009
Jesse Firestone
  5.13c
Jesse Firestone  
  5.13c
This is a bad ass route. Tons of uninterrupted steep climbing, multiple cruxes of different styles, and some of the coolest holds in the cave.

My opinion of the spraydown: V6 opening boulder leads to a few rest options. Then you have a 5.11ish jug haul through the roof, a learned drop kneebar rest, and then directly into an awkward clip and a V6 compression crux at the lip. Another difficult clip leads to some decent holds, then a long reach to a rest stance. From this rest you launch directly into the redpoint crux: a 3 move V5 lockoff problem on wide pinches and slopers. After that you get another jug, but the wall is steep and the pump almost terminal. It might still be possible to fall on the last bolt of sequential 5.11 climbing. Overall I found this a more difficult redpoint than TN, mostly due to the variety of climbing and length (around 52 hand moves for me.)

Some people think this route is dangerous. Clipping and climbing past the third and fourth bolt can be intimidating, but I think it's safe with an attentive belayer. For working the moves, bring a shorter draw and clip in direct to the bolt to find and brush the holds - the chain hangs too low for good reconnaissance. On redpoint I recommend pulling the slack out of the system after clipping these two bolts to keep wayward limbs from swinging behind the rope during the opening boulder problem.

With a good size stick clip it's possible to jumar up to the lip and climb the headwall starting with the crux, which is probably around 12c.

Sorry for the spray, but this thing is sweet and should get more traffic. Oct 7, 2015

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