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Routes in Rat Cave

Boxcar S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boxtop S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Conquistador S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dorkboat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enchilada A La Carte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Held Down S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Horizontal Delite S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kings of Rat S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mavrick, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pissfire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
ShitFire S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sombrero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stiffler, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
TuffNerd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warm Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warmnerd S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tom Scales
Page Views: 2,286 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Begin with a double hands double heels on a slacktite. Move into a series of sidepulls using OK edges. The crux is moving off of two sloper at midway to an OK undercling, followed by a series of lockoff gastons. The climbing doesn't ease from there, as it remains extremely pumpy all the way to the anchors.

Location

Left of the Stiffler

Protection

bolts

Photos

What a fun route. It's hard to believe that an additional kneebar rest wouldn't affect the grade of thing, since a lot of the difficulty comes from the sustained nature of the route. I say we just call it 5.13 and savor the rad movement this climb offers. Oct 21, 2011
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
 
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
 
We keep finding kneebars on this rig. Two so far. We'll see if it affects the grade Jan 1, 2008