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Routes in Rat Cave

Boxcar S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boxtop S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Conquistador S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dorkboat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enchilada A La Carte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Held Down S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Horizontal Delite S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kings of Rat S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mavrick, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pissfire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
ShitFire S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sombrero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stiffler, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
TuffNerd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warm Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warmnerd S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Prep HK & T$ FFA RP
Page Views: 3,354 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Nov 23, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start up Enchilada A La Carte for the first three bolts 12-, the head straight up insted of following the left leaning weakness. The first few moves off the seam involve a tough sequence of powerful crimper lockoffs to a desperate toss to a marginal sloper (12+ish). Make a clip off a shitty slopper pinch, then enter the crux. A series of desperate pulls off slopers at 30 degrees overhanging. This follows for two bolts (roughly V10). Unlike Tuffnerd, this route lacks a decent rest before its pumpy headwall. Finish on sustained 5.12 for the last 5 bolts.

Location

Second left leaning weakness from the right.

Protection

bolts. There is a midway anchor at the 5th.

Photos

Jeff Hofheins 1
Portland, OR
Jeff Hofheins 1   Portland, OR
vimeo.com/142280186 Oct 16, 2015
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
Great send Ryan! Nov 16, 2009