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Routes in Rat Cave

Boxcar S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Boxtop S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Conquistador S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dorkboat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Enchilada A La Carte S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freakshow S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Held Down S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Horizontal Delite S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Kings of Rat S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Mavrick, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pissfire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
ShitFire S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Sombrero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stiffler, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
TuffNerd S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Warm Up S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Warmnerd S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Franklin - 2005
Page Views: 2,261 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Oct 25, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Once a chossy route, this route has cleaned up into a viable warmup for the crag. A bouldery start leads into easier climbing, with another cruxy move near the top.

Location

Furthest route on the right

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Daniel Carter
Portland, Oregon
Daniel Carter   Portland, Oregon
I lead this over the weekend. Hell of a warm-up! I fell at the crux move and heard a pop from the 5th bolt. Upon closer inspection I noticed a hairline crack passing through the rock and the bolt placement. I'm not entirely sure it was there before I fell or after. Sorry. Use extreme caution when climbing this route... and huge thanks to Carson for the stick clip. Super handy! Apr 18, 2017
Jacob Wren
Portland
Jacob Wren   Portland
4/7/17 Carson and I went. He lead I flailed haha. FYI Carson was generous enough to leave a brand new 16ft stick clip tucked away for other climbers. Use it and leave it! Apr 10, 2017
Glad you guys are enjoying the route. I cleaned, bolted (on hooks!) and sent the route in 2005. Haven't been out there in a few years so it's probably a totally different route now. Called it 11d because it was easier than the warmup. Feb 6, 2015
pdxuller
  5.11d
pdxuller  
  5.11d
Yes a big thank you to those who cleaned up this route. Pretty fun with no single difficult move. Nov 5, 2013
Geoff-cyclewolf
Portland, OR
Geoff-cyclewolf   Portland, OR
12a if you have to use the tall man beta. Whoever bolted, cleaned, glued and groomed this route should be commended. Could use kinder carabiners than ovals on the anchors but than again maybe that's part of its charm. Nov 2, 2013
Mark Huth
Portland, OR
 
Mark Huth   Portland, OR
 
12a if you have to use the short person beta Jun 18, 2012
Eric Schnepel
Portland
 
Eric Schnepel   Portland
 
Actually pretty fun. Way more jugs than anything else out there. Time to RP it 100 more times and get it ruthlessly dialed. . . Feels like hard 11 by RC standards. Oct 25, 2011
ktaylor
Bay Area, CA
 
ktaylor   Bay Area, CA
 
This is a fun route and probably a better warmup than the warmup. The rock doesn't seem that much worse than anything else either. May 26, 2009
orclimber
Portland, OR
  5.12a
orclimber   Portland, OR
  5.12a
fun route and easier than the 'warmup'. a little sharp and loose. Mar 23, 2009
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.12a
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.12a
best route ever... Nov 28, 2008
Must say: this isn't THAT bad! Sure, the rock is chossy, but the moves are more enjoyable than the lower part of the "warm up". It has its place, IMO. (The warm up was seeping, so we decided to give it a go) Apr 13, 2008