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Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress
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A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Eagle Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Needle Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sunburn Hand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.94693, -120.13266 |
| FA: | Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963. |
| Page Views: | 10,764 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The easiest and best route at Eagle Lake Buttress, Eagle Route follows an obvious line of mostly hand-sized cracks on quality rock that is studded with chicken heads. The climbing is nicely sustained in the 5.4-5.6 range.
P1: head up a pair of double crack systems broken up by a ledge. Belay at a small ledge where two cracks diverge in a v-shape.
P2: climb the right crack; above move into a flaring corner with a hand crack in the back. This has been described as a "chimney" but doesn't much resemble one. Belay where the route joins the East Ridge route.
P3: pick your poison to reach the summit, there are a variety of headwall cracks after a slabby section.
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