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> Eagle Creek Canyon
> Eagle Lake Buttress
Eagle Route [Suggest Change]
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.1 from 17
votes
Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress
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A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Eagle Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963. |
| Page Views: | 4,971 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description [Suggest Change]
This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.
Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.
Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.
Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.
Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.
Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.
Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.
Olympic Valley, CA
Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.
I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.
We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit. Aug 3, 2009
California
We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.
I liked this much more than the ridge route. Sep 15, 2015
Squaw
Ventura, CA
That said the short cruxy sections are well protected. The chimney on the second pitch was phenomenal! You can get fist jams in the crack at the back and good feet (and gear) on the left side of the wall.
As you top out the route, onto the ridge and into the warm sunlight, set your belay right on the cracked slabs so you're facing Lake Tahoe. View is sublime.
Since the climb is only 2-3 pitches I'd plan on savoring the hike/scenery just as much as the climbin Oct 28, 2017