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Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Eagle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.
Page Views: 4,753 total, 35/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.

Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.

Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.

Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.

Protection

Pro to 4".

Photos

jt newgard
Sacramento, CA
  5.7
jt newgard   Sacramento, CA
  5.7
I agree with splitclimber that this route is probably harder than 5.5

That said the short cruxy sections are well protected. The chimney on the second pitch was phenomenal! You can get fist jams in the crack at the back and good feet (and gear) on the left side of the wall.

As you top out the route, onto the ridge and into the warm sunlight, set your belay right on the cracked slabs so you're facing Lake Tahoe. View is sublime.

Since the climb is only 2-3 pitches I'd plan on savoring the hike/scenery just as much as the climbin Oct 28, 2017
MacksWhineturd
Squaw
 
MacksWhineturd   Squaw
 
Best 5.5 I've ever climbed. May 26, 2016
splitclimber  
5.7
Great route but I think it is much harder than 5.5. A steep double crack spot before the V and getting up into the flared chimney sure felt all of 5.7 to me.

We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.

I liked this much more than the ridge route. Sep 15, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.5
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.5
Fun east climb with great pro. The crack on the first pitch had lots of knobs for feet and hands. Jul 17, 2011
philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.

Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.

I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.

We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit. Aug 3, 2009
426
 
426  
 
Great route in a great setting. Mar 19, 2007