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Eagle Lake Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
	Eagle Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Needle Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sunburn Hand Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	8,515 ft	2,595 m
GPS:	38.94693, -120.13266 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	47,122 total · 212/month
Shared By:	Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This prominent buttress towers at the south end of a long ridge above and to the north of Eagle Lake.

Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb. Some have described the buttress as a "mini Cathedral Peak".

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There

The approach to Eagle Lake Buttress takes roughly 1.5 hours and gains roughly 1600' over 2 miles. Follow the trail out of Emerald Bay to Eagle Lake and cross the outlet. Hike along the shore eventually moving up and right to the base of a large, talus-filled gully with a prominent rock wall forming the right side. Head up the gully until it flattens out in a benched area with views of Velma Lakes. Continue across this flat bench for a bit, keeping the buttress in view. As the bench starts to move away from the buttress, weave your way up the slabs to the right, eventually gaining an obvious ridge. Follow the ridge to the base.

Descent: there is currently webbing/rings on top, rap off to the west. Getting off the summit proper otherwise requires some low 5th class down climbing, generally heading down just south of the obvious notch about 20' below the summit. To get back to the base, contour generally right and down via 3rd/4th class, then back left once on easy ground.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Lake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c 56 ● Eagle Buttress Traverse Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 57 ● Eagle Route Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 22 ● East Ridge Route Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 6 ● Orange Book Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Wind Tree Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 20 ● Orange Sunshine Trad, Alpine 2 pitches