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Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Eagle Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 8,515 ft
GPS: 38.95, -120.136 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,457 total · 126/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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This prominent buttress, towers at the south end of a long ridge about a mile west of Eagle Lake.
Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb.

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There

To reach the buttress, cross the outlet at Eagle Lake and follow a ravine to a ridge that leads to the base.
The approach takes about 1.5 hours.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Lake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Eagle Buttress Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Ridge Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Book
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wind Tree
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eagle Buttress Traverse
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Eagle Route
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
East Ridge Route
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Orange Book
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Wind Tree
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Orange Sunshine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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South Lake Tahoe, CA
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Climbed this via Eagle Route a few weeks ago. Really cool alpine adventure, despite the low climbing/hiking ratio. Reminded me of Cathedral in Tuolumne, though with a longer and harder hike and shorter climb. I left some green webbing slung around a block and a hanger (both brand new) for the rap off the summit to the slabby descent. Jul 27, 2013
Will Gilkison
Wheatland, CA
Will Gilkison   Wheatland, CA
Timmaly -

We used your gear to rap down after summiting via the East Ridge Route, it's still in good shape, although no longer green. Aug 25, 2013
The scramble in took a quite a bit more than an hour and a half. Granted this was my first time off trail in the back country. I would allow a bit more time and start early in the day if you are not experienced in back country hiking. The green sling and biners were gone, so I left one of my own for the rap down. Please leave for the good of the order! Jun 3, 2015
give yourself 2 hours for the approach. The rocky/brushy gully is a much better approach than the slabs.

The walk off is easy. downclimb past the small pillar to the notch, climb up a 8 foot rock flake to a sloped top out. It is easy and there is no need to rap the mountaineer's route. Sep 15, 2015
Satchel Friedman
Berkeley, ca
Satchel Friedman   Berkeley, ca
If you go up here and don't do the traverse, it isn't really worth it. I found the entire traverse (leading up improbable gendarmes, bouldering and simulclibing etc) to be a ton of fun. Dec 20, 2015
MacksWhineturd   Squaw
Tahoe mini alpine climbing. I like to approach up the slabs but scramble down the rocky gully directly to Eagle Lake for a little swim. The views from the top are stupidly gorgeous. I suppose you could rap from the top, but I've always downclimbed the westish side. May 26, 2016
My husband was up on the buttress on July 13th 2016 taking photos for work when he tragically fell and died. Search and Rescue recovered MOST but not ALL of his camera gear and clothing. If you find any gear up there, please contact me. Thank you! Jul 26, 2016
Truckee, California
Jskierpx   Truckee, California
Repeating what others have said, this is an awesome "Tahoe mini alpine adventure" and a "mini-Cathedral peak". If you know the approach and are an efficient hiker, you can make it from the car to the base of the climb in 1-1.5 hours no problem. The approach climbs 1,600 feet in 2 miles.

We climbed Orange Sunshine and found it to be in the 5.8-5.9 range. Well protected, quality climbing. Yes you only get 2-3 pitches of climbing from a slightly burly approach, but it is worth the effort. The day as a whole is great. From getting a good workout hiking, a killer view of the lake and emerald bay, good rock quality, no crowds, and a dip into Eagle Lake afterwards, it is worth the energy.

As far as rapping off of the top, we found a cordelette wrapped around a horn. Hopefully people don't loot the booty as it was a safe and a convenient way to retreat down to the slabs.

Enjoy! Jul 19, 2017
Jared Casper
St. George, UT
Jared Casper   St. George, UT
We went up the wrong ravine trying to scope this out on a morning hike. So a heads up that after crossing the lake outlet, (I now believe) you turn left and follow the shoreline of the lake for a while before you get to the ravine/slabs to climb, which is to the West of the outlet. If you keep going straight after crossing the outlet there is a prominent ravine to the Northwest that goes up to the valley between Emerald Point and Eagle Lake Buttress. This is not the ravine to go up to get there, but is a really cool hike despite some bushwacking! Oct 25, 2017

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