Elevation: 8,515 ft
GPS: 38.95, -120.136 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,737 total · 165/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

This prominent buttress, towers at the south end of a long ridge about a mile west of Eagle Lake.
Good rock and excellent views make this a fine place to climb.

[Note: Some parties that summit with ample time and energy report enjoying the ridge traverse uphill from the top of Eagle Lake Buttress proper.]

Getting There

To reach the buttress, cross the outlet at Eagle Lake and follow a ravine to a ridge that leads to the base.
The approach takes about 1.5 hours.

Additional approach and descent beta from splitclimber:

Approach Beta - hike eagle lake trail to eagle lake and cross the outlet.  hike along the shore until you are forced up to the right to the base of a big gully with large, solid blocks.  stay to the right of the gully for the best climbing and top out on a benched area with views of Velma Lakes.  Continue across this flat bench, then go up just before a large pine tree through some brush up slabs and through several large boulders on the ridge.  From here, traverse across to your selected climb.

Descent Beta - from the summit, downclimb 15 feet in a chimney feature with solid holds on a large, thin flake which is at the top of the mountaineer's route.  then go up a 8 foot tall flake/boulder and top out on a slanted ledge.  scramble down to a saddle, then go left and follow cairns down and right towards Velma Lakes.  Then contour left back to the base.  You do not go down the steeper section to the left.  No need to downclimb any 4th class.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eagle Lake Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 17
Eagle Buttress Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 28
Eagle Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
East Ridge Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Orange Book
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Wind Tree
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Orange Sunshine
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eagle Buttress Traverse
 17
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Eagle Route
 28
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
East Ridge Route
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Orange Book
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Wind Tree
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Orange Sunshine
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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