Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Eagle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kevin Nelson, Bill Todd, 1974.
Page Views: 2,089 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

Description [Edit]

To the right of "Orange Book", are two parallel cracks that begin about 120' above the ground.

Climb the first pitch of "Orange Book" to a ledge beneath the cracks.

Move up and right and climb the left crack to "The East Ridge".

Protection [Edit]

Pro to 2".


"Orange Sunshine" was a type of LSD in the 1960s and early 1970s. May 24, 2007
bergbryce   California
Great climb.
The first pitch was a bit disappointing, the second was very good. Had originally planed to climb Orange Book to the top but when we got to the first belay and saw that incredible looking crack, had to go for it. I personally thought the first pitch corner was more difficult (awkward) than the second pitch crack. It was like insecure jams vs. sinker. Jun 2, 2012
Satchel Friedman
Berkeley, ca
Satchel Friedman   Berkeley, ca
I disagree - the first pitch was awesome splitter opposed hands. I wish it was longer! The second pitch was fun and exposed, and the traverse that followed had some amazing splitter cracks and bouldering with some wild exposure. Dec 20, 2015
Truckee, California
Jskierpx   Truckee, California
Fun climb in a great setting. For me the first pitch was a bit awkward (IMO very much like the first corner section of "Rated-X" on Donner Summit if you are familiar), followed by a fun, high quality second pitch with good rock. The 3rd pitch ties in to the other routes on the ridge at a big ledge. From here you can choose your own adventure to the top. Definitely worth the hike in. Jul 19, 2017

More About Orange Sunshine