Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rick Sumner, Bill Todd (free-solo), 1974.
Page Views: 7,749 total · 42/month
Shared By: splitclimber on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: The Caldor Fire is actively burning-DO NOT JEOPARDIZE ACCESS BY ATTEMPTING TO ACCESS CLOSED AREAS. Details


This is the scenic route, with awesome views of the area.

There are so many variations to this climb.  Darshan's info (see comments section below) is detailed, but confusing and I don't believe he climbed much of the standard route based on his description. Bergbryce's (see comments section below) post better describes the climb.

I'm breaking the climb down in several sections as the route is not sustained, but has several distinct sections.  Because the pitch 2 offwidth may be harder than 5.7 and requires large cams, most will climb the 5.8+ splitter crack.  I would recommend climbers be solid at 5.8.  In my opinion, this climb is sandbagged at 5.7.

Pitch 1 - Start of Route/Base Slab

 - There are several starts from left to right:  a dark/dirty small roof, a flared parallel cracks, and a ledgy, easy start.  All these starts should go up to the base of the first steep section with a blocky vertical crack on the left and a arched crack on the right.  You can bypass this section by hiking around to the right.

Vertical Crack/Arched Crack
- option 1:  Climb the vertical crack that widens and ends with blocks to a large platform (5.7).
-option 2:  Climb the left arching crack that joins the vertical crack (5.8 and sustained).
- Belay on this ledge and extend your tie-in to watch/belay your follower.  It looks like you can also walk off/bail at this spot.

Pitch 2 - Orange Face/right slanting crack or juggy face

- option 1:  Climb this right slanting crack on the left (5.7?, I did not climb) or

-option 2:  Climb the juggy face on the right (5.6) then blocks to the base of the double wide cracks or the splitter 5.8+ finger crack.
Steep Cracks Face

-option 1:  The finger crack is very sustained.  When the crack ends you grab a downward facing flake/tooth and make precarious moves to the left to gain the upper portion of the off-width crack, then finish on jugs.  mountainproject.com/photo/1…

-option 2:  The off-width on the left absolutely needs 4 to 5 inch cams.  mountainproject.com/photo/1…  Hard to believe this section is only 5.7 (I climbed up 10 feet and retreated because of no large cams).

-Belay at the top of this section in blocks and extend your tie-in to watch/belay your follower.

Pitch 3 - Right slanting crack to 4th/easy 5th blocks/ramps

-Climb up the right slanting crack and continue up easy blocks and ramps finding the easiest path to the wind tree ledge platform.
-option 1:  From the wind tree ledge climb up to the upper 2nd class platform and hike to the base of the final 30 foot headwall with many options and belay here.

-option 2 - Hike to the end of the wind tree ledge and belay and the base of a corner with cracks/flakes.  

Pitch 4 - Short final pitch to summit

- option 1:  Climb up a bulge with cracks and either go up onto a ledge under a wide crack and finish on a juggy flake or climb the wide crack or the slot to the right.

-option 2:  Climb up cracks/flakes to a rising ramp feature with lots of exposure on the left side of the summit block.  mountainproject.com/photo/1… Finish on an angling crack to the summit. mountainproject.com/photo/1…


Pro to 2 inches.  Bring doubles in .3 to .5 inches for the 5.8 splitter crack and/or 2 cams in the 4 to 5 inch range for the offwidth or only 1 large cam and be prepared to bump the cam up the offwidth.