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Routes in Eagle Lake Buttress

Wind Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crowd Control T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eagle Buttress Traverse T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Eagle Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
East Ridge Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Escape, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Business T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orange Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Orange Sunshine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tom sans Bob T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rick Sumner, Bill Todd (free-solo), 1974.
Page Views: 5,509 total, 41/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the scenic route, with awesome views of the area.

Follow the ridge to the summit.

Protection

Pro to 2" (or 4"!).
K DJ
 
K DJ  
 
Fun and interesting climb that earns you a great view. But be aware, as you're exiting the pitch 1 chimney on the right be mindful that the blocks you have to climb over to gain the belay ledge are loose. Be careful what you're pulling on so you don't pull a rock down onto you. Jul 17, 2017
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.7
3 or 4 stars for the views and 1 star for the climb itself. There are two short fun sections interspersed with much 4th class. Didn't live up to the hype for me. Jan 28, 2015
bergbryce
California
 
bergbryce   California
 
Great climb, with lots of options. You can choose your own adventure and make it as difficult or easy as you'd like.
You can also stop after 3 pitches at the top of what I'd call the "East Summit". The climbing after this is un-memorable, requiring a long ridge traverse and a short pitch of 5.7 on poor quality rock that adds length and complexity to a descent.

(Warning, beta alert)
Had to kind of look around for a good place to start, this required walking around the right end and looking for some cracks to start up on. The start isn't particularly obvious.

P1. Also started under a small roof very near the actual end of the buttress proper. There was a big, slab up and to the left of our start. Connected 3 short, discontinuous crack systems, mostly 5.7ish. This brings you to a big ledge with an obvious hand crack that goes straight up. Take this, at the top is a huge ledge with a right slanting crack. Belay here. ~100'

P2. Climb steep right slanting crack to top, then you'll see an excellent looking off fingers crack to your right when you top out. Climb this to it's end, then traverse left (5.8) into another, wider, easier crack. (You could also take the easier looking, wider crack to the left of the off-fingers crack to avoid the 5.8 part). This leads to an easy, right-arching crack and after that, easy 5th/4th class until you run out of rope or find a nice spot to belay. Long pitch.

P3. ~90' (or 130') of easy 5th/4th to the base of a large block. This block represents the "East summit". You can belay here or continue up. The block is maybe 35' tall, has many options, the easiest looking one towards the center was 5.7. Jul 17, 2011
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Here are some notes on the pitches we did. This information may not be entirely accurate since I did this route a couple months ago.

We started the route beneath a small roof.

P1: Step over the roof and onto a slab. Climb left to a crack in left facing corner. Climb up the corner a bit until the crack becomes too thin and difficult to climb. Traverse left and do an exposed step across (5.7) into a corner / chimney. Climb up the chimney to excellent face climbing on big jugs at the top of the chimney. Belay on a huge ledge.

P2: Climb up the easy broken slab to a ginormous slanting ledge. This is an easy pitch.

P3: Climb up the steep slanting crack near the left edge of the wall (5.7) to gain the slabby arete. See mountainproject.com/v/calif… Stay on the arete for maximum exposure and eventually move left on to a pillar. Belay on the exposed pillar.

P4: Gain the ridge by traversing across a slabby face and downclimbing a bit. See mountainproject.com/v/calif… Once on the ridge, the terrain is 3rd and flat walking. Eventually, you can do a tunnel through if you want and belay on the other side.

P5: Unrope and walk along the ridge. Stay on the right (East Facing) side of the ridge. Eventually, you'll come to a 30 foot wall blocking your progress. This makes up the last and sixth pitch.

P6: Climb the steep 30 foot wall. Feeling daring? Climb as close as you can to the edge. See mountainproject.com/v/calif… The rock is crap so be careful. This is a scary but short pitch. 5.7

Descent: Walk a few hundred more feet along the ridge. Go down the slabs on the left (West Facing). Easy downclimbing. Keep your climbing shoes on. Oct 13, 2010