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5.6, Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.1 from 32 votes
FA: Dave Beck, Norm Wilson, 1963.
California > Lake Tahoe > W Shore > Eagle Creek Canyon > Eagle Lake Buttress
This route follows the right side of the "V" mentioned in "The Wind Tree" description.
Climb the right crack to a ledge belay.
Another pitch leads to a belay at the top of a groove.
Move left to a chimney, follow this to the East Ridge. Climb that to the top.
Pro to 4".
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"Eagle Route". Photo by Blitzo.
Looking up from the bottom of Eagle Route and Wind Tree Route
Closer look at Eagle Route from approach
Eagle route seen from approach.
The fun knobby crack on pitch 1.
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Great route in a great setting.
Mar 19, 2007
Olympic Valley, CA
Great climb. Very little loose rock compared to other easy rated alpine climbs I've done. Lots of cobwebs when we climbed it so I don't think this gets climbed too often, although we did clip a fixed nut and cam that didn't seem to be there for too long.
Takes great pro the whole way. We did this in three pitches. First pitch, almost a full 60 meters, ground up through the "V" section belay where the angle eases below a few bushes. Second pitch, again almost a full 60 meters, up past the couple bushes up easy ground to the chimney section, continue up the path of least resistance to a big ledge area. Third pitch find the easiest path to the summit block.
I placed everything from a green alien up through a #4 Camelot. If I were to do this again I would only bring a set of nuts, #.5-#2 Camelot with a double in #1 and #2. Although I placed a #4 in the Chimney it was not needed, a #2 would have gone in a foot above or a foot below. I also placed a #3 at the first belay, but if I had an extra #2 it would have worked better. Lots of nut placements. There are no anchors so bring enough gear that you feel comfortable with.
We had to get a bit creative on the decent. I couldn't find a way off that we felt comfortable downclimbing so we did one rap and left some webbing in the saddle below the summit.
Aug 3, 2009
Somewhere out West
Fun east climb with great pro. The crack on the first pitch had lots of knobs for feet and hands.
Jul 17, 2011
Great route but I think it is much harder than 5.5. A steep double crack spot before the V and getting up into the flared chimney sure felt all of 5.7 to me.
We climbed the nice crack/flake to the right of the mentioned groove which was really good. We did it in 3 pitches to the ridge mostly because I sewed up the first pitch to below the V and didn't have enough gear to keep going.
I liked this much more than the ridge route.
Sep 15, 2015
Best 5.5 I've ever climbed.
May 26, 2016
San Diego, CA
I agree with splitclimber that this route is probably harder than 5.5
That said the short cruxy sections are well protected. The chimney on the second pitch was phenomenal! You can get fist jams in the crack at the back and good feet (and gear) on the left side of the wall.
As you top out the route, onto the ridge and into the warm sunlight, set your belay right on the cracked slabs so you're facing Lake Tahoe. View is sublime.
Since the climb is only 2-3 pitches I'd plan on savoring the hike/scenery just as much as the climbin
Oct 28, 2017
Awesome route. Pitch 2 belay on the wide summit ridge has excellent views, so take in the scenery. I placed everything from #0.3 to #4 BD cam on this route. The #4 was nice to have in some places.
Jul 26, 2019
Sustained 5.6 route once you traverse left. Mostly hollow sounding flake system for the majority of the route from then on, careful with the placements due to this fact. Still a fun route, would recommend running 40 feet past the first belay ledge to a better stance above making the climb two pitches.
Jul 27, 2019
Did this climb yesterday on a warm day, though a slight breeze made the climbing very tolerable. For the most part I thought that the climbing was fun with easy to place protection and good holds just where you need them. I had a moment of contemplation while making the move getting above the "V." We did the route in two pitches stretching out both pitches to nearly 60 meters. I don't recommend this because as I led through the final wall to the summit block it felt like I was dragging a bowling ball behind me. The climbing is short and although pretty good, the real reason to climb here is for the setting. Wow! While you're here be sure to soak in all the amazing views of Emerald Bay and Lake Tahoe as well as the great landscapes of the Desolation Wilderness.
Aug 26, 2019