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Routes in Central Wall

Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 370 ft, 3 pitches
FA: To Main Ledge: Steve Thompson, G. Webster, 1966. Above Main Ledge: P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1954.
Page Views: 2,169 total · 16/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


This route is identified by a large white dihedral above Main Ledge.

Start in a striking crack, below this dihedral. Climb 5.7 for 140' and belay.

A short pitch leads to Main Ledge. Climb the dihedral to the top.

Walk off left.


Pro to 3".


- No Photos -
San Francisco, CA
Johan   San Francisco, CA
A terrific route with a lot more adventure feel than the other LL classics of similar quality. I'd call it sustained 5.8, with sting in the tail at the upper OW. My partner and I climbed it yesterday at the end of a long day, and felt a teensy bit better about ourselves when we later learned that the SuperTopo guide calls it 5.8, not 5.7 as listed here. Sep 28, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
Just as good, if not better, than many of the overcrowded "classics" on the East Wall.

On a five star system, pitch 1 is four stars, especially if you lead one long pitch to the big ledge. I also used a 70m rope and was able to walk the ledge to build my anchor at the base of the 2nd pitch with about a foot or two of slack left.

For pitch 2, I'd give 2 stars out of five. The gear I used in the offwidth was a #1, a #2, and a #3 metolius nut in that order. I also thought the route had a better than average topout, but then I like big Jefferey Pines ;) Apr 30, 2013
Angie C
Seattle, Wa
Angie C   Seattle, Wa
It's really tight to link the first and second pitches with a 60m rope. The party in front of us had a 60 meter and the belayer had to climb a couple steps for the leader to have room to make the anchor. We used a 70 meter and had zero problems.

That offwidth on the second pitch is something else! A refreshing change from the typical LL climbing I do. Not as much in the way of the LL dikes to help, so you have to use cracks and friction a little more on this climb. Also, get ready to shimmy up that chimney and OW!

Also, its supposedly not a dirty climb, but I found it dirtier than everything on the east wall. Oct 1, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
I was able to reach a good belay on the 2nd pitch with a 60m when I did this. We did it in 2 pitches. My belay was a stout tree I'd slung. Good thing too, my anchors weren't solid yet because that second pitch was my first gear lead. Aug 14, 2011
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Best done in 2 pitches with a 70 m rope--I had tons of extra slack to build an anchor at the wall (i.e. the only real place you can find anything sturdy and solid to work with) and extend myself all the way back to the edge of the cliff for communication with my partner. However, the people who climbed this after us used a 60 m and the leader could not reach the wall, so she lassoed some laughable shrub at the cliff edge and told her partner to simul up 30 feet until she could reach the back of the ledge.

First pitch is QUALITY! The offwidth on p2 can be protected with micro-cams on the opposing wall. Oct 20, 2010
I confirm that the first two pitches can be combined with a 60m rope. Mar 1, 2007
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
You can combine the first two pitches with a 70m rope no problem, and I seem to recall the supertopo says you can do it with a 60m...

Also, we used a #4 Camalot to protect the crux move on the upper half of the route.

Fun route, I thought the first pitch was more fun.

Please respect falcon nesting closures. Jan 23, 2007