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> Lover's Leap
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> Central Wall
Eagle Buttress, Left
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 6
votes
Routes in Central Wall
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Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fallen Hero T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 3,484 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Blitzo on Mar 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
This is the first Buttress, coming from the east. Begin in a gully on the right side of the buttress. A left-diagonaling, 5.7 traverse, leads to a crack system, near the buttress center. Belay from a small pillar, about 30' up the crack. Another pitch, leads to Main Ledge. Walk left to the large corner formed by the side of the buttress. Climb a chimney until it becomes too narrow, then move (5.8) into a thin crack on the left. Pass an overhang and soon belay. Either continue up the corner, or climb a hand crack, to an arete, which leads to a sloping area in a gully. Continue to the top.
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