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Routes in Central Wall

Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1956
Page Views: 2,118 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the first Buttress, coming from the east. Begin in a gully on the right side of the buttress. A left-diagonaling, 5.7 traverse, leads to a crack system, near the buttress center. Belay from a small pillar, about 30' up the crack. Another pitch, leads to Main Ledge. Walk left to the large corner formed by the side of the buttress. Climb a chimney until it becomes too narrow, then move (5.8) into a thin crack on the left. Pass an overhang and soon belay. Either continue up the corner, or climb a hand crack, to an arete, which leads to a sloping area in a gully. Continue to the top.

Protection

Pro to 3".

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