Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: P. Berry, R. Linnett, 1956
Page Views: 2,220 total · 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first Buttress, coming from the east. Begin in a gully on the right side of the buttress. A left-diagonaling, 5.7 traverse, leads to a crack system, near the buttress center. Belay from a small pillar, about 30' up the crack. Another pitch, leads to Main Ledge. Walk left to the large corner formed by the side of the buttress. Climb a chimney until it becomes too narrow, then move (5.8) into a thin crack on the left. Pass an overhang and soon belay. Either continue up the corner, or climb a hand crack, to an arete, which leads to a sloping area in a gully. Continue to the top.

Protection

Pro to 3".

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Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I doubt this gets done every year. Fun in a dirty way, if you nawmean. I think we had (and used) a #4 c4. After the two approach pitches shared with Eagle Buttress Right, you’ll traipse up moss lined chimney and encounter a tricky step over left into a thin dihedral up a column to the small gear and single pin belay ledge. I thought this section warranted more than 5.8, but, hey, let’s keep er old skool! Jan 30, 2019