Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966
Page Views: 4,684 total · 30/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The pitch off Main Ledge is the business, a succession of mantles on dikes up a steep wall to a spectacular hand traverse right to an overhang. Surmount the overhang and belay. Climb a crack system to a wide gully then follow the Eagle Buttress, Left Side route for 200' to the top.

Location Suggest change

Follow the first two pitches of Eagle Buttress, Left Side to get to Main Ledge. From there follow a series of steep dikes on the right side of Eagle Buttress. Follow the standard Central Wall descent walk off.

Protection Suggest change

Gear up to 3"

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Photos

caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttress Right after pulling some wild steep moves off the horn. <br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttre…
 4
Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
 3
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
 1
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on Eagle Buttress Right. <br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse…
 1
The hand crack is completely covered in peregrine poop right after the horn, as of Sept 31st 2017. It smells worse than cat piss, so bring your nasty clothes and maybe a brush! Might not advise being the first party up it when the route opens seasonally.
The hand crack is completely covered in peregri…
 1
The hardest part of the route - start of the 2nd pitch from the Main Ledge
The hardest part of the route - start of the 2n…
 0
Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed in the summer for peregrine nesting.
Peregrine feather en route. This route is close…
 0
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dikes and ends at a nice ledge.
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the…
 0
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quick....
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go q…
 0
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
 0

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