Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 38.8014, -120.13299
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966
Page Views: 4,955 total · 28/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski
Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route


22 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Explore this route in 3D
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Previous Next
Warning Access Issue: 2026 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The pitch off Main Ledge is the business, a succession of mantles on dikes up a steep wall to a spectacular hand traverse right to an overhang. Surmount the overhang and belay. Climb a crack system to a wide gully then follow the Eagle Buttress, Left Side route for 200' to the top.

Location Suggest change

Follow the first two pitches of Eagle Buttress, Left Side to get to Main Ledge. From there follow a series of steep dikes on the right side of Eagle Buttress. Follow the standard Central Wall descent walk off.

Protection Suggest change

Gear up to 3"

Add New Photo Drop down
Photos

caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttress Right after pulling some wild steep moves off the horn. <br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
caughtinside nears the P1 belay on Eagle Buttre…
 5
Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
Looking up Pitch 2. Lasso the horn for protection.
 3
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
Dow lassoing the horn at the start of Pitch 2.
 1
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse on Eagle Buttress Right. <br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
A climber contemplates the steep hand-traverse…
 1
The hand crack is completely covered in peregrine poop right after the horn, as of Sept 31st 2017. It smells worse than cat piss, so bring your nasty clothes and maybe a brush! Might not advise being the first party up it when the route opens seasonally.
The hand crack is completely covered in peregri…
 1
The hardest part of the route - start of the 2nd pitch from the Main Ledge
The hardest part of the route - start of the 2n…
 0
Peregrine feather en route. This route is closed in the summer for peregrine nesting.
Peregrine feather en route. This route is close…
 0
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the dikes and ends at a nice ledge.
Looking up Pitch 1, which goes leftward up the…
 0
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go quick....
Pitches 4 & 5 to the top....ug....but they go q…
 0
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
Pitch 3. Probably the best pitch on the route.
 0

7 Comments

Sort by: Oldest Drop down
Newest Oldest Popular
loading