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Routes in Central Wall

Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: TM Herbert and Gordon Webster, July 1966
Page Views: 2,277 total, 33/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 28, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The pitch off Main Ledge is the business, a succession of mantles on dikes up a steep wall to a spectacular hand traverse right to an overhang. Surmount the overhang and belay. Climb a crack system to a wide gully then follow the Eagle Buttress, Left Side route for 200' to the top.

Location

Follow the first two pitches of Eagle Buttress, Left Side to get to Main Ledge. From there follow a series of steep dikes on the right side of Eagle Buttress. Follow the standard Central Wall descent walk off.

Protection

Gear up to 3"
William Buchanan
Oakland, CA
William Buchanan   Oakland, CA
I think we were the first party of the season to attempt, since the hand crack is covered in bird poo/piss. I advise bringing clothes you don't want and a brush if you're up there right after it opens, anytime near Sept 30. Oct 4, 2017
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Did this rope solo a few days ago. A few notes.

Pitch one starts with 15 feet of 5.9 climbing to a questionable pin. Move left and place a good small nut. Above that is a cam placement against a loose flake. OK but hard not to use the flake to move higher. Move further left and go up so-so climbing to the large ledge. Far right is a bolted belay/rap station. 180 ft. Off of this the knob toss. I initially did this, and then decided instead to move further right, up and around the roof, and then back left out the hand traverse to a bolted belay. This seems like the option that is more in line with a Tahoe 5.9 rating. I also did the moves associated with the knob toss and found them considerably harder than 5.9

The climbing I did to the right was very good, except there is a large scary flake just 15 ft off the belay, and before the roof. It is hollow.

Anyway, the descriptions given in this section don't match the climb I did onpitch two.
After the bolted belay, head back left and follow the crack up. Really nice juggy steep climbing. Rope soloing I did two and three as one pitch. It is about 210 feet into the gully. At the top of the gully there is some very exposed easy fifth class climbing. Oct 13, 2016
DylanJK
Berkeley, CA
DylanJK   Berkeley, CA
I agree, P2 is spectacular and harder than 5.9.

You can climb the whole route in 3 pitches with a 70. Supertopo shows p2-3 totaling 190' to the ledge that hits the gully but judging by how much rope was left, I'm guessing 210+ feet? Oct 10, 2016
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10a
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10a
This is a real hidden gem (I guess mostly because of the nesting closures).
Had no trouble doing this in 4 pitches, we combined the last two 4th class pitches.

Supertopo calls P2 5.9 and P3 5.10a. I disagree, I think P2 is 10a/b and P3 is 5.9.

The P2 overhanging hand traverse followed by the roof and dyke hiking is committing and strenuous, and amazingly fun. Fantastic exposure. And the start to this pitch is pretty tough too, definitely lasso the knob for pro.

Found 3 pins on the route, all a bit rusty.
Took a #4 and used it, but you don't really need it.

Great climb, go do it and clean up the bit of vegetation on it (P4&5 has lots of vegetation which isn't going anywhere, oh well). Sep 27, 2015