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The Hourglass
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 9
votes
Routes in Central Wall
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Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fallen Hero T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 475 ft (144 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Warren Harding, Dick Long, Jack Rankin (1965) FFA; Greg Dexter, Rick Sumner (1975) |
| Page Views: | 3,292 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jul 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Walk along the big ledge which traverses under the second pitch of Travelers Buttress and continue past the large gully of Eeyores Ecstasy to the start. Or climb any number of routes directly below the X formation that forms the route. These routes tend to be loose and dirty.
Pitch 1: Starts on dirty right-facing flakes and climb up and slightly left to the shallow crack system that forms the right leg of the X feature. Stop at a good ledge to belay. (200', 5.8).
Pitch 2: Climbs a thin seam with some old fixed pins which trends rightward. There is plenty of gear to back them up with. Continue up and through an easy slabby area to an alcove belay.
Pitch 3: Climb a continuous crack system through the huge roofs. Perfect hands and fingers through the roof complement the previous stellar pitch and continue trending rightward in the main crack system to a bolted belay.
Pitch 4; A long but easy pitch through an alcove puts you on top of the formation. I believe we climbed out left and avoided the big alcove by staying on the runnout face.
A very cool climb, of course its a Harding route. Maybe one of the better 11s at the leap. Wild exposure, great crack climbing. A must do for anyone who’s up to it.
4 Comments