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Routes in Central Wall

Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 475 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Harding, Long, Rankin
Page Views: 1,433 total · 19/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 6, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A hard to find route that starts on dirty right-facing flakes. Climb flakes up and left to a good ledge (200', 5.8). The second pitch climbs a thin seam with some old fixed pins. Back them up with small cams and launch up the easy but dangerously runout slab with dikes to a gear belay in an alcove. Look for old slings. From here climb a continuous crack system for multiple pitches through the huge roofs. Bolt belays have been added. I'm trying to be more vague because I don't remember the specifics. The top out pitch is long and it is hard to communicate with the belayer. A very cool climb, of course its a Harding route. Maybe one of the better 11s at the leap. Wild exposure, great crack climbing.

Protection

Standard rack to 4", runners.

Photos

The best and most exposed long hard route at the Leap. Also the longest approach at the leap. The first time I climbed it I found a 1948 silver dollar at the base which I still have. I often wondered if it was placed as a gift?

P1 has a couple of starts. I have only climbed it from the left lower leg of the "X" that forms the route. It is run out and dirty but actually interesting and enjoyable climbing. I recall an RP in a corner that one has to move out right onto an easy face but pretty run out.
The next 2 pitches can be done in 1 long pitch. Head up the now clean crack to a bulge that is awkward cool moves up steeping rock to the overhanging headwall crack. Either belay below the headwall (Large cam and old bolt or pin) or continue up. The next section is brilliant, slightly overhanging crack about 25 feet. To do P2 and 3 in one is about 10d/11a.
Next pitch is the crux. Up about 15 feet of hard corner crack to what then forms a roof. Like a much harder version of Haystack. This section is sandbag 11a (really 11b). ABove the roof work up and right to a thin tower that is summited and then on to easy grungy terrain to the top. I think an additional belay is needed.
Climbing the upper pitches of this route are more reminiscent of the Rostrum than the Leap. A classic for the good trad leader Jan 7, 2018

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