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Routes in Central Wall

Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 475 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Harding, Long, Rankin
Page Views: 1,273 total, 19/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 6, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A hard to find route that starts on dirty right-facing flakes. Climb flakes up and left to a good ledge (200', 5.8). The second pitch climbs a thin seam with some old fixed pins. Back them up with small cams and launch up the easy but dangerously runout slab with dikes to a gear belay in an alcove. Look for old slings. From here climb a continuous crack system for multiple pitches through the huge roofs. Bolt belays have been added. I'm trying to be more vague because I don't remember the specifics. The top out pitch is long and it is hard to communicate with the belayer. A very cool climb, of course its a Harding route. Maybe one of the better 11s at the leap. Wild exposure, great crack climbing.

Protection

Standard rack to 4", runners.

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