Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Short but Squeezed
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Early Access
Routes in Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)
|
|
Area 51 T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Bee Line Highway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Coal Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Code Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Double O Slab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Hair of the Dog, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Hard Luck and Bad Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
La Facada Norte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Otherworld S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Roadside Traverse T V2 5+ |
|
|
Short but Squeezed T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Short but Sweet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Slipstream Dihedral T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Ten Second High S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42251, -105.23537 |
| FA: | Pat Akerson and Al Simons |
| Page Views: | 745 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | allen simons on Jun 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Squeeze up the offwidth, crux 15 feet up. Solid rock. Exit out the top and wander up and right to the top of the ridge on easy rock.
Location
0.6 miles past the Biege Siphon Tube is a paved pullout on the south side of the road. Uphill to the east lie several slabs with existing routes on them. At the very top, 700 feet up, lies a rock wall 40-60 feet high that slope up from left to right. This wall can be accessed by climbing routes on the slabs below and finishing with one of the routes on the ridge top. 50 feet left of the end of the ridge (30 feet left of short but sweet) will get you to Short but Squeezed. Getting down is best accomplished by rappelling off of the anchors at the top of Double O then rapping off of trees and rocks to get down to the road.
2 Comments