Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Disney & Ken Paine 4/71, FFA: unknown
Page Views: 2,751 total · 13/month
Shared By: allen simons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube there is a paved pullout on the south side of the road next to a big block of rock called the Borg. Look up and east. 3 obvious slabs exist. This crack is on the upper left slab in the center of the face. Two small trees grow out of the crack 20 feet from the base. Start up the thin crack and clip the two pitons. (5.10) move past the trees and climb the crack to the top using a standard trad rack to 2 inches.

Protection

Three existing pitons, gear 0.5 to 2 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off to base then rap off natural anchors. Bushwhack to road or the rap gully and rap off of two bolts 50 feet to the road.

Photos

allen simons
  5.10
allen simons  
  5.10
I was recently told the first ascent was by Jim Disney. It was originally an aid climb. Mar 14, 2006
Thanks, Allen. We called it "Double 0 Slab" after the 1st ascent.
The first climb was mixed free & aid. May 16, 2006
allen simons
  5.10
allen simons  
  5.10
Jim, did you post the picture? It's exciting to see the history of this hidden canyon, thanks. Also interesting are how the names change due to loss of information and no guide books over the years, hence, "double O" to "007"! May 16, 2006
Yes ... I posted the picture. Thought folks might get a laugh out of seeing how it was done back in the old days.
I did the 1st ascent with a great climbing partner, Ken Paine. We did a lot of climbs together, including my very first climb ... Kiener's Route on the East Face. We were both young and foolish and didn't know any better. The mountain gods were smiling on us that day. May 17, 2006
allen simons
  5.10
allen simons  
  5.10
Considering that you have climbed for four decades, and hiked every trail, peak, valley and ridge in the Park I would think the gods have smiled on you a lot. The pictures are great. Ever get the itch to climb anything in the canyon let me know. Allen May 18, 2006
allen simons
  5.10
allen simons  
  5.10
Jim, you don't know who bolted the left side of the slab left of Double O do you? 2 bolts in 130 feet with little other gear placements. The bolts are older stainless steel with a hint of golden rust on them and were there when I first climbed the slab in 1993. Mar 29, 2007
Rob DeZonia  
 
This is an awesome route! My favorite in the area. Feb 23, 2010