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Routes in Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)

Area 51 T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bee Line Highway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coal Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Code Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Double O Slab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair of the Dog, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Luck and Bad Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
La Facada Norte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Otherworld S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Roadside Traverse T V2 5+
Short but Squeezed T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Short but Sweet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slipstream Dihedral T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ten Second High S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jim Disney & Ken Paine 4/71, FFA: unknown
Page Views: 2,684 total, 14/month
Shared By: allen simons on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube there is a paved pullout on the south side of the road next to a big block of rock called the Borg. Look up and east. 3 obvious slabs exist. This crack is on the upper left slab in the center of the face. Two small trees grow out of the crack 20 feet from the base. Start up the thin crack and clip the two pitons. (5.10) move past the trees and climb the crack to the top using a standard trad rack to 2 inches.

Protection

Three existing pitons, gear 0.5 to 2 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off to base then rap off natural anchors. Bushwhack to road or the rap gully and rap off of two bolts 50 feet to the road.
Rob DeZonia  
 
This is an awesome route! My favorite in the area. Feb 23, 2010
allen simons  
 
Jim, you don't know who bolted the left side of the slab left of Double O do you? 2 bolts in 130 feet with little other gear placements. The bolts are older stainless steel with a hint of golden rust on them and were there when I first climbed the slab in 1993. Mar 29, 2007
allen simons  
 
Considering that you have climbed for four decades, and hiked every trail, peak, valley and ridge in the Park I would think the gods have smiled on you a lot. The pictures are great. Ever get the itch to climb anything in the canyon let me know. Allen May 18, 2006
Yes ... I posted the picture. Thought folks might get a laugh out of seeing how it was done back in the old days.
I did the 1st ascent with a great climbing partner, Ken Paine. We did a lot of climbs together, including my very first climb ... Kiener's Route on the East Face. We were both young and foolish and didn't know any better. The mountain gods were smiling on us that day. May 17, 2006
allen simons  
 
Jim, did you post the picture? It's exciting to see the history of this hidden canyon, thanks. Also interesting are how the names change due to loss of information and no guide books over the years, hence, "double O" to "007"! May 16, 2006
Thanks, Allen. We called it "Double 0 Slab" after the 1st ascent.
The first climb was mixed free & aid. May 16, 2006
allen simons  
 
I was recently told the first ascent was by Jim Disney. It was originally an aid climb. Mar 14, 2006