Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Allen Simons
Page Views: 321 total · 2/month
Shared By: allen simons on Oct 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Grip the right arete and edge up the face past 3 bolts (10+/11a) to a good stance. Start up the upper section, past 3 more bolts, crux at second bolt, (11a), but 10ish thru the entire upper section, finishing with a small roof bulge.
One could conceivably use junky holds on the right and left sides past the edges of the upper section of the rib, but that would be cheating now, wouldn't it? Seriously, I did not use them, but it would make the climb easier. As a side note, one can now climb Otherworld and Hard Luck and Bad Times, fourth class up 70 feet to the upper slab where one can climb Double O Slab or Slipstream Dihedral. From there, you can then top out on the very top of the ridge by climbing any one of multiple lines (many done a long time ago, names unknown). Short But Sweet and Short But Squeezed are two climbs up there that are listed in this guide. So, 4 rock pitches in a row, all raps done with a doubled single rope.

Location

Park in the paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube on the south side of US Hwy 34. Same as for The Borg and Upper Slabs that contain Double O, Slipstream, Otherworld, etc. Hike west along the road half way back to the turn in the road, and 4th class up 30 feet. Continue up and east to the left side of the lower slabs. Access to the climb is by climbing Otherworld (5.10), or wander up loose 5.2-5.4 rock to the base of the climb. The start is 20 up and right of Otherworld.

Protection

6 bolts. 2 bolt anchor, single doubled rope rap to top of Otherworld's 2 bolt anchor, single doubled rope rap to base of climbs. Hike 60 yards down central gully to a 2 bolts in rock on east side of gully and rap 35-40 feet to side of US Highway 34.

Photos