Avg: 3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||2,365 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||allen simons on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
APPROACH: Class 4 up 30 feet of loose ledges 200 feet east of the pullout, hike to the broken rock walls directly under the upper slab. Climb 3 or 4 wandering pitches through rotten Class 4 and Easy Class 5 rock. Protection is limited. The way is marked by bolt anchors, slings on rocks/trees, and horns of rock used for the rappel off. Conceivably, one could climb the first two lower slabs and hike to the top of the upper slab and rap to the start or climb any of the several new lines going in directly below the climb.
Slipstream: 5.9+ - Pitch 1. (60 feet) Climb the left-facing dihedral right of Double O Crack past four bolts to an exciting but well protected move left of a small roof to the chains. Crux at the roof.
Pitch 2. (80 feet) - Climb up past two more bolts and exit the dihedral 40 feet up. Stay right of upper Double O, placing gear as needed through 5.8 rock to a small ledge with a two bolt belay.
Rappel: Two one rope rappels to the base of the climb off of bolts/chains. Four or Five one rope rappels off of trees, rock, and bolts get you to the bottom. One final rappel to the road off of a two bolt anchor in the gully 50 feet above the road. (Gully directly above the screen drain next to the road).