Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ironing Board Slabs (Upper & Lower Slabs)

Area 51 T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bee Line Highway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Coal Room T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Code Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Double O Slab T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair of the Dog, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard Luck and Bad Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
La Facada Norte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ned's Variation to Code Rainbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Otherworld S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Roadside Traverse T V2 5+
Short but Squeezed T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Short but Sweet T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Slipstream Dihedral T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ten Second High S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Left (sorry Gillett) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Al Simons
Page Views: 1,745 total, 11/month
Shared By: allen simons on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Park at a paved pullout 0.6 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube in the narrows of Big Thompson Canyon, (next to the Borg). Up and east set a series of steep slabs. Slipstream is located on the right side of the highest slab 600 feet above the highway. Two small pine branches growing out of the Double O Slab 30 feet from the base landmark this slab.

APPROACH: Class 4 up 30 feet of loose ledges 200 feet east of the pullout, hike to the broken rock walls directly under the upper slab. Climb 3 or 4 wandering pitches through rotten Class 4 and Easy Class 5 rock. Protection is limited. The way is marked by bolt anchors, slings on rocks/trees, and horns of rock used for the rappel off. Conceivably, one could climb the first two lower slabs and hike to the top of the upper slab and rap to the start or climb any of the several new lines going in directly below the climb.

Slipstream: 5.9+ - Pitch 1. (60 feet) Climb the left-facing dihedral right of Double O Crack past four bolts to an exciting but well protected move left of a small roof to the chains. Crux at the roof.

Pitch 2. (80 feet) - Climb up past two more bolts and exit the dihedral 40 feet up. Stay right of upper Double O, placing gear as needed through 5.8 rock to a small ledge with a two bolt belay.

Rappel: Two one rope rappels to the base of the climb off of bolts/chains. Four or Five one rope rappels off of trees, rock, and bolts get you to the bottom. One final rappel to the road off of a two bolt anchor in the gully 50 feet above the road. (Gully directly above the screen drain next to the road).

Protection

PITCH ONE: 4 bolts with no other available protection to a 2 chain anchor/belay station 60 feet off the deck. PITCH TWO: 2 bolts and cams 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches to a two bolt anchor/belay station 130 feet off the deck.

Photos

Rob DeZonia
  5.9
Rob DeZonia  
  5.9
When I had first climbed Slipstream with my brother, I remember us talking about how the convenience of an anchor at the top of the Slipstream corner, at the same elevation where Double 0 pulls onto easier broken rock, would have increased the quality of both routes. I think this spot is still within the 100' mark. Slipstream and Double 0 are two of the most asthetic and classic lines in The Narrows. Sep 10, 2011
allen simons  
 
Rob, glad you liked the route. You are correct, the extra (unneeded belay) was put in to facilitate two single rope raps. I'm not understanding your comment about the belay being at the top of Slipstream. There is a rap on the very top of Double 0 that is the same for Slipstream. Sep 6, 2011
Rob DeZonia
  5.9
Rob DeZonia  
  5.9
I liked this route a lot. It's a single pitch route with an unnecessary belay thrown in part way up. I think it was put in to allow a two single rope rappels from the top of Double 0. If that belay were at the top of the Slipstream Dihedral, we would have the option of rapping from it on Double 0 as well in one single rope drop. That's where the good climbing stops anyway. Sep 5, 2011
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
I made the ascent with travis yesterday and do believe those anchor slings could use replacement. they are about two or three years old now. I will replace them next time im there for sure. (with a chain and a rap ring.) Jul 24, 2009
allen simons  
 
Thanks Cale. In my opinion, the best approach, one that minimizes kicking rocks to the highway is to park at the borg (0.6) miles. Walk back east to the 0.4 mile mark (right at the first curve in the canyon) and hike up the gully there. When the gully runs out, catch the ridge line to the right and take it to the very upper area where it intersects with the upper climbing wall. Traverse across right (class 4) and gain the lower end of the huge ramp. Climb up the ramp and you can locate the anchors to Slipstream, Double O, and another set of anchors for La Facada Norte. You can hike off the ramp to the south to a pinnacle 50 feet over and catch the anchors for area 51. From these points, you can rap to the base of the climbs....steep hike.
The only other approach is to climb up the canyon at 0.5 miles and be way careful not to knock of rocks. Find Other World and Hard Luck and Bad Times and climb up, then fourth class up the the base of Double O. Have fun. Allen Oct 2, 2008
Good lead Scotty! Must say I'd agree with Kyle probably best route in BTC alongside Friday the 14th! Super thin but good pro and stellar moves! What's the easiest approach to this slab? Had trouble finding any solid trail? 3 stars and a must do for any aspiring climber! Good work, Allen! Sep 29, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Super thin moves, good feet loved it, after the two last bolts gear up to two inch. The approach need some work, I use Allen Simmons guidebook, not much info. Going back up to free the Double O Crack. Three 1/2 stars. Sep 29, 2008
kyle kingrey
Loveland
  5.9+
kyle kingrey   Loveland
  5.9+
This is probably the best route in BTC.
After the last bolt you can either stay to the right or break slightly left for a bit more excitement. Good gear when the bolts disappear. This climb is easliy done as one pitch. Jul 13, 2007