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Routes in Addiction

A Beautiful Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Addiction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Corner Drug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
DeWalt's Challenge S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dogs of War S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drug Enemy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gathering, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Go West, Young Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Want a New Drug S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mezmeree (sp?) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Enemy S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road to Dushanbe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soul Finger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
White Dwarf S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,337 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 31, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

Another great dihedral climb at Sinks. This moderate line is a relatively new addition to the area (comment on details and I'll add). This well bolted line is perfect for new leaders.

This line climbs the left leaning dihedral on laybacks and a few pockets and edges. The hardest moves move up and left over a bulge at 3/4 height. Fun hand-traversing to the left lead to the chains from here. Careful of climbers immediately below on the two face lines. A little short for a 3 star route, but great climbing for a 5.7 at Sinks.

Location

On the left side of the addiction wall, a left leaning dihedral bounds a slabby section of rock. This line climbs the left arching easy dihedral (as opposed to the straight in corner above -- which has a newly bolted 5.11).

Protection

7-8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
 
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
 
Leave those draws at home, (or to the routes left or right) this one goes on all hexes! 6 days ago
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
Yosemitesam -grumpy and insecure like the cartoon character...

C'mon California dude, get out of the dark ages! I'd be embarrassed to be so unelightened. (That's for insulting Wyomigites and a Wyoming Native!).

I'm an old fart who's been climbing for 46 years and learned under the "ground up - leader dies not fall" mentality and even I can understand the sport climbing style.

Sinks Canyon is a SPORT climbing area, not a trad area. It's a different style where bolts are acceptible, even on cracks which can be protected with trad gear. It's a style where rappeling down and placing bolts, rehearsing the moves, and then leading is the accepted style. AND, there is nothing stopping anyone from leading on trad gear if that's their choice!

Difficult routes (5.11 up) usually have very many bolts, and are often steep or overhanging with not many features - and thus safer to fall on. However, if you think about it, easier climbs have many more features and are often lower angle, making falls dangerous. So easier climbs should have more bolts than hard ones. Also, although experienced climbers could manage safely, inexperienced climbers will most often be leading the easier climbs so it gives them an added margin of safety.

I climb at Shelf Road, one of the first sport areas in the US. One of the best climbs there is a BOLTED moderate crack and dihedral called Crinoid corner - check it out on Mountain Project. This climb can swallow trad gear almost anywhere. But many of the sport climbers don't have trad gear because it is so expensive, but they can still do this climb. I know a few young sport climbers who were inspired to trad climb because of being able to climb bolted sport cracks at sport areas!

Note that Wyoming is full of trad areas with the ground up ethos - Tetons, Wind Rivers, Vedauwoo, Devil's Tower - where there would be outrage and controversy if a crack was bolted that can be protected on trad gear. Get off your "greater than thou" high horse!

And remember, it wasn't Yosemite climbers who made the first free ascent of El Capitan - it was two boys from Wyoming - Todd Skinner and Paul Piana. They advanced their skills right here in Sinks Canyon. As well as Vedauwoo with its flaired cracks which helped them learn the skills so they could free the headwall cracks which had turned away many strong climbers before them! Apr 7, 2016
brandon walkinshaw
lander wy
brandon walkinshaw   lander wy
So you took a trad rack to sinks main wall in aug, yep you are new to town. Aug 18, 2015
Rhett Burroughs
Rock Springs, WY
Rhett Burroughs   Rock Springs, WY
I did this route because I just moved out here and it sounded good. I was appalled by the bolt raping on the route. I lead it traditionally and I would rate it a 8. You can walk up the left side crack and its a 7 but the right crack I would say a solid 8. Aug 10, 2015
bart cubrich 1  
  5.6
I agree that the bolts on this climb are unnecessary, but this is a great route, and everything is bolted to hell at this crag anyhow. There are bolts at the top of the v0 slab at the parking too, for who knows what reason. It's just sort of the style there I guess. May 31, 2014
Shawn Miley
  5.7+ PG13
Shawn Miley  
  5.7+ PG13
Great climb and good bolts. Not like that YosemiteSam guy that was bagging on this climb, its a really great warmup route, and a classic at Sinks Canyon. And to the YosemiteSam, you have never climbed there so dont bag on it. Italic Text May 2, 2014
You're missing the point. I am against bolting ANY crack. At ANY grade level. The rule here is a ground up ethic. If the first ascentionist couldn't manage to do the climb b/c of flared cracks or bad gear or whatever then they move along and someone else who doesn't need to machine gun bolts into the side of the rock will put up the first ascent. All those bolts are an eyesore and take away from the adventurous spirit that climbing was founded on. I can't believe you are even aruing about this. As far as the very few bolted cracks here in Yosemite...like I said, they created controversy that lasts until this day.
Jun 24, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
What does the grade of the climb have to do with it? I can bolt a crack only if its 5.12 or above and my address is in El Portal? Pfft...whatever. You do need to climb the route before you comment because unless you have climbed it, you don't know whether there is actually good gear there or not. Perhaps the placements are all flaring. Perhaps the rock wouldn't hold a lead fall with a cam in it. How do you know? You don't. And the FA of this particular route is a sharp guy and I trust his judgement and his reasons for placing the bolts. Moreover, he is a longtime local and by extension knows better than you or I what the local ethics in the Sinks require. Jun 24, 2012
J Albers you really dont know what you are talking about...The bolted climbs you speak of in Yosemite are not rated 5.7...Would you ever find a 5.7 crack bolted like that in the Valley? The answer is no. Never. The climbs you speak of are all in the 11's and 12's and they were bolted long ago with much controversy...I don't need to climb a route to know that 8 bolts on a 45ft 5.7 is too much. So you shhhh.... Jun 23, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Oh really Yosemite Sam? What about the Public Sanitation wall or the Chapel Wall? Definitely no bolted cracks there....
Unless you have actually climbed this route and can comment from personal experience, then shhhhh..... Jun 4, 2012
What in the world is the deal with all those bolts on a 45ft. climb? Absolutely ridiculous...and next to a crack! Easily protected with gear. We do things a little different out here in Yosemite...I'd be embarrased to be responsible for this...C'mon Wyoming folks! Jun 4, 2012
Josh Hattan
  5.8
Josh Hattan  
  5.8
This route is called Go West, Young Man. Apr 30, 2008