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Routes in Addiction

A Beautiful Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Addiction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Corner Drug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
DeWalt's Challenge S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dogs of War S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drug Enemy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gathering, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Go West, Young Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Want a New Drug S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mezmeree (sp?) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Enemy S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road to Dushanbe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soul Finger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
White Dwarf S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Frank Dusl
Page Views: 577 total, 5/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jul 4, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

One route right of Pretty Hate Machine. Long moves on crimps for the first two bolts, then a couple of pocket moves to get to the 3rd. A neat sequence brings you up to the fourth bolt, using a series of right hand side pulls. Pause on a pocket past the 4th, then a small crimp and a right hand mono get you to the fifth. A long draw helps on this bolt. One more hardish sequence to the 6th bolt on a sloping rail with the right and a friable left hand side pull. The finish is not hard, but the holds are difficult to find as this one doesn't get too much traffic.

There are some pretty sharp holds on this route, and a few things that look like they may break off if yarded on too hard. However, the movement is good and it's a fun sprint. Good trainer for power/endurance on gently overhanging rock. Not as good as PHM and a little bit harder, but definitely as good as Dogs.

Location

next route right of Pretty Hate Machine

Protection

bolts

Photos

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another f.a. by Frank Dusl back in the day. Nov 17, 2009