Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Frank Dusl
Page Views: 1,230 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jul 4, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

One route right of Pretty Hate Machine. Long moves on crimps for the first two bolts, then a couple of pocket moves to get to the 3rd. A neat sequence brings you up to the fourth bolt, using a series of right hand side pulls. Pause on a pocket past the 4th, then a small crimp and a right hand mono get you to the fifth. A long draw helps on this bolt. One more hard sequence to the 6th bolt on a sloping rail with the right and a friable left hand side pull. The finish is not hard, but the holds are difficult to find.

There are some pretty sharp holds on this route, and a few things that look like they may break off if yarded on too hard. However, the movement is good and it's a fun sprint. Good trainer for power/endurance on gently overhanging rock. Not as good as PHM and a little bit harder, but definitely as good as Dogs.

Location

next route right of Pretty Hate Machine

Protection

bolts

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