Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Frank Dusl
Page Views: 630 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Jul 4, 2008
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

One route right of Pretty Hate Machine. Long moves on crimps for the first two bolts, then a couple of pocket moves to get to the 3rd. A neat sequence brings you up to the fourth bolt, using a series of right hand side pulls. Pause on a pocket past the 4th, then a small crimp and a right hand mono get you to the fifth. A long draw helps on this bolt. One more hardish sequence to the 6th bolt on a sloping rail with the right and a friable left hand side pull. The finish is not hard, but the holds are difficult to find as this one doesn't get too much traffic.

There are some pretty sharp holds on this route, and a few things that look like they may break off if yarded on too hard. However, the movement is good and it's a fun sprint. Good trainer for power/endurance on gently overhanging rock. Not as good as PHM and a little bit harder, but definitely as good as Dogs.

Location

next route right of Pretty Hate Machine

Protection

bolts

Photos

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another f.a. by Frank Dusl back in the day. Nov 17, 2009