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Routes in Addiction

A Beautiful Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Addiction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Corner Drug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
DeWalt's Challenge S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dogs of War S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drug Enemy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gathering, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Go West, Young Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Want a New Drug S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mezmeree (sp?) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Enemy S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road to Dushanbe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soul Finger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
White Dwarf S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Collins
Page Views: 1,020 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 27, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

This combo line is quite fun. Climb the lower crux of Corner Drug through three bolts. Clip the fourth with a long runner. Shake out. Make the easy but airy hand traverse left into Public Enemy (12b/c). Climb up into the classic moves on the upper cruxes of Public Enemy. You'll make moves off of flakes and pockets. One of the pockets up in there is a good mono - while you are on good feet. I'd peg this around 11d/12a, it could feel either way.

Location

Obviously located on both Corner Drug (11a), the obvious obtuse dihedral on the right side of addiction wall, and the top of Public Enemy(12b/c) just to the left of Corner Drug.

Protection

8-9 bolts to anchors. At least one runner, perhaps other long draws. If your runner is long enough, it is possible to clip the bolt after the hand traverse on the left and reach back right and unclip the runner to reduce drag.

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