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Routes in Addiction

A Beautiful Life S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Addiction S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Black Hole S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Corner Drug S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
DeWalt's Challenge S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dogs of War S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drug Enemy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gathering, The S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Go West, Young Man S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Want a New Drug S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mezmeree (sp?) S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pretty Hate Machine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Public Enemy S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road to Dushanbe, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Soul Finger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Sandwich S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surplus Fusion Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
White Dwarf S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Frank Dusl
Page Views: 1,469 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Dogs of War has scads of 5.12 climbing with a very bouldery crux on crimps buried in the mid-height on the climb. A jug allows a shake before the crux. Two variations on travel exist after the crux 1) either directly right into Pretty Hate Machine (13b/c), or 2) up before more slowly merging w/ PHM. The 2nd version involves a few more stout pocket cranks than the 1st. The final few clips of Dogs of War are shared with Pretty Hate Machine and involve more pocket climbing on the final bulge. Possible softer than 13b variation 1) and likely 13b for 2).

Location

Located near center on the wall, just left of the big juniper at the base. Converges high on the route with Pretty Hate Machine which climbs from directly behind the juniper.

Protection

8 bolts (1 or 2 shared with PHM) to anchors.

Photos

Kipp Schorr  
 
Pretty enjoyable route, and a nice respite from some of the greasey difficult routes at this crag. Pretty quick crux section (involving a small very chipped crimp), but the top makes up for it with really fun moves on incut pockets. Reasonable for the grade. Dec 2, 2013