Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 2,546 total · 17/month
Shared By: Aimee Rose on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

"Although not the best route in El Rito, this route is still pretty good. Offering "easyish" 5.12- climbing up to a V7 or V8 crux right after the last bolt. Its definitely worth doing, if the stuff at the Rad Wall isn't hard enough." -Ben Schmitt.

"This route was originally touted as 13c/d, which is laughable. Most people seem to be able to call it 13b without blushing, so its probably a soft 13b. Rumor has it you can climb up the arete and skip the crux, making it more like 12+. The 5.13 grade assumes you follow the obvious line." -Monomaniac

Location

To the right of Whipper Wonderland starting in a cave.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
5.13a/b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
5.13a/b
This route was originally touted as 13c/d, which is laughable. Most people seem to be able to call it 13b without blushing, so its probably a soft 13b. Rumor has it you can climb up the arete and skip the crux, making it more like 12+. The 5.13 grade assumes you follow the obvious line. Nov 17, 2006
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
Thanks for your more complete descriptions of this route! I used your comments for a better description of the actual route. It's always preferable to have comments from people who have actually climbed the routes! Dec 4, 2006
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
So for the 5.13 grade did you use the large jug Hueco out right and above the last bolt? Currently from the rest my sequence is right hand pinch - clip - left hand in a 2-finger pocket sidepull - right hand into the Hueco as a Jug undercling - left hand up into a sloper pinch - cross thru and match right hand on the same hold - Left hand far left on a sidepull - and dyno left hand for the obvious jug.

I'm thinking about trying to skip the large Hueco, going straight up from the 2 finger pocket sidepull to the sloper pinch.

Using my sequence I guess 13a. Oct 2, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
First, in the first photo I saw of this route it was actually called 5.14 a/b and a project.

Second, Disturbing, I do not remember any jug in the area you are talking about, I went right hand to the sloper off of the 2 or 3 finger sidepull undercling with the left hand. Then there is a sloper pinch block thing for your left hand just to the left of the U shaped sloper sidepull that I'm guessing you crossed in. This hold allows you to turn your right hand from the sloper to a sidepull pinch and then do the jump. Oct 4, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
Brett, I don't think anyone is suggesting that you can or can't use the arete. As far as I'm concerned I'm just relating my experience on the route. I would agree that if you can reach the bolt line, or even move off of it and back onto it then you should feel free to use it, climbing is about enjoying yourself and freedom. Nov 5, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
Hey Brett, You're right it is about finding the line or weakness, I only asked because I wanted to be sure I wasn't missing the crux, not that it really matters. I was just looking for something hard at El Rito, and was curious how other people did the top section. In this case if you follow the arete all the way up it puts you pretty far right of the anchors.

Video Beta: You'll notice that I definitly use the arete then move back onto the face.


youtube.com/watch?v=PKVz8LC… Nov 19, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
5.13a/b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
5.13a/b
Here's how I did it back in the day:

youtube.com/watch?v=l9FB13R…

I thought it was low 13b with my sequence.

Looking at your video (DTP), it certainly doesn't look like you're off route. Feb 27, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.13a
Mono, nice video and impressive camera work for having a fixed camera. Certainly looks like your sequence adds a couple of hard moves getting past the last bolt before setting up for the crux. Mar 2, 2010
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
I thought the finish up the arete was really cool! It's probably not 5.13, but it seemed substantially harder than To Beer or Not to Beer and other mid 5.12's I've done at El Rito, so 5.12+ seems about right. Highly recommended, especially if the original finish feels a bit too tough, as it did for me. Aug 11, 2012
Viktoriya L-S
  5.13a/b
Viktoriya L-S  
  5.13a/b
I created an account just to let people know that the last bolt to the anchors is currently a hazard (as of 06/11/18) . The hanger is falling off, and when I tried to hand tighten the nut, I realized it has stripped threading and needs a tool to re-tighten it. I spun the hanger up to make it standout to climbers thinking of attempting this sweet climb. Bring a wrench! :) Jun 14, 2018
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
 
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
 
I brought a wrench and tightened as many bolts as I could on the route. I didn't get the first 3 bolts due to the wondering nature of the route. The bolt that protects to top crux was flipped upside down and stuck, so when I fell while climbing I actually bent the hanger due to the direction of fall with the quick link. Anyways El Rito has great sport climbing, but looks like its not getting the proper maintenance that it deserves from the regular visitors too the area. I would recommend starting by just bringing a wrench to tighten down bolts. Most of the bolts are stud bolts anyways. It takes a little more time and work to maintain the routes, but in the end you receive a fun and safe place to climb. Sep 4, 2018