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Routes in Beer Block

12-pack Link S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
BYOB S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buddha's Beer Belly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Beerto S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It's Time to Drink Beer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Kings S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tecate Two-Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Whine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thing, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
To Beer or Not to Beer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Village Cobbler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whipper Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lucas Laeser and Walt Wehner, September 1997
Page Views: 548 total, 4/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

While this climb looks chossy and bad, it is not terrible. With traffic it could be an OK route, maybe some retro-bolting as well. Some find the slab behind you close enough to be scary, though you can stem to it up high. The worst part of the route was probably how dusty the holds were due to lack of traffic, so again, maybe with some love this could be a worth while route.

Location

In the gully on the south side of Beer Block, Texas Whine can be found by the ugly homemade hangers.

Protection

7 homemade hangers to a 2-bolt anchor

Photos

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Definitely add/replace/whatever if it'll make the route safe and enjoyable.

cheers,
LL Mar 2, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Would be a good route if it weren't for the dirty loose rock, poor bolts, and the potential to hit the slab in a fall up high. A few of the angle iron hangers have been replaced with regular hangers but the studs weren't long enough, so the nuts aren't threaded all the way. Jun 1, 2009
Wa3lt  
Dude, if anyone wants to re-bolt this, please feel free. I'm pretty sure I speak for Luke as well when I say that this is the worst route we ever bolted. We really thought the slab behind was going to be ok, and we were broke, so we used those awful angle iron hangers that Luke made in shop class in the early 90s... gah. Mar 1, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
You know, I did this several years ago and while I don't think I'll do it again anytime soon, it was not terrible. With traffic it could be an OK route, maybe some retro-bolting as well though I don't remember being scared by the slab behind me though I did steam to it up high. The worst part of the routewas probably how dusty the holds were due to lack of traffic, so again, maybe with some love this could be a worth while route.

I doubt Wa3lt would mind but best to ask first. Feb 18, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
FA was Lucas Laeser and Walt Wehner in September of 1997. It was also originally rated 5.11c. Jul 15, 2008