Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ed Strang
Page Views: 311 total · 2/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Easier climbing on small holds leads up through the bottom section of the route. Crux is up high and involves a long move to a 2 finger pocket off of an edge, though there are other holds around for those with wee fingers.

Location

The second route from the left on the North side of the Beer Block (to the right of Tecate Two-Step)

Protection

4 bolts to anchors

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
5.12+
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
5.12+
This thing is not 5.13. Nov 17, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
For sure! When I posted these climbs I hadn't been on a lot of them, I just took the info from a guide, which was obviously wrong on a lot of accounts. Nice route though. May 16, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12+
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12+
Wrong as in not the right thing to do? or just incorrect?

Easier climbing leads up through the bottom section of the route. Crux is up high and involves a long move to a 2 finger pocket off of an edge, though there are other holds around for those with wee fingers. Feb 18, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
Nice to have a long draw on the 4th bolt. I thought the crux was getting between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Jun 1, 2009
WAGbag
Denver, CO
5.12
WAGbag   Denver, CO
5.12
Looks like lots of chalk heading toward the anchors of Tecate after the last bolt (and one person I know stating they went that way) for an easier finish, putting the crux in between 3 and 4. Correct anchor is right putting the crux after the last bolt. Certainly not 13, not 12+, more like 12. Despite all the oddities I had a great time on it! Aug 2, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12c
I finished on the anchor's of Tecate thinking that was the correct anchor since that's what it says in Taos Rock. It certainly looked harder finishing straight up as there was no chalk or obvious holds.

Lee's description of "a long move to a 2 finger pocket off an edge" matches perfectly with what I did finishing on the Tecate anchors though. Aug 11, 2009
Jeffrey Hyman
Santa Fe, New Mexico
Jeffrey Hyman   Santa Fe, New Mexico
Figured out a finish to go up and right. It's powerful, but it's all there. Apr 4, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c/d
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12c/d
Clipping the last bolt seems to be THE crux for me. Fun. May 22, 2016
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
 
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
 
Anyone ever consider giving this climb it's own anchor? Aug 24, 2018