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Routes in Beer Block

12-pack Link S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
BYOB S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buddha's Beer Belly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Beerto S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It's Time to Drink Beer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Kings S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tecate Two-Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Whine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thing, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
To Beer or Not to Beer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Village Cobbler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whipper Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 2,039 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block just through the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block. But despite the sunny-sounding aspect, it's shaded by the Big Pine Wall block most of the day making it a nice route for those hot days.

Start out on chalked-up but not-so-positive holds to some decent holds for clipping the first few bolts. After the third bolt the climbing becomes steeper and a bit run-out to a difficult clip at the fourth bolt with a fixed chain draw. Chalked up holds around the fourth bolt look appealing but don't offer much for a good clipping stance. Figure out the clip and punch it to better holds past one more bolt and the anchors.

Location [Edit]

This route is on the southeast side of the Beer Block at the top of the narrow passage between Beer Block and the Big Pine Wall block.

Protection [Edit]

5 bolts to anchors

Photos

lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
FA Lance Hadfield this was the 1st route I bolted in El Rito and the 3rd route in the area Jun 15, 2010
NEH
  5.11b
NEH  
  5.11b
Excellent route! There is a chain draw on the 4th bolt that makes "the crux" clip a bit easier. Sep 10, 2011
skelldify
  5.11+
skelldify  
  5.11+
The fourth bolt seems like it could be a bit lower, it's right in the middle of the crux sequence. We hung a draw on the chain to allow clipping from the good holds. Then you're protected for the entire crux, and it's still not a big fall going to the fifth bolt. I hate it when the crux of a route is making a clip. May 29, 2016
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.11b
With all respect for the idea of adding a permadraw to alleviate a challenging clip (which I do appreciate sometimes), if people are clipping that with a quickdraw, it seems to me like adding another bolt is a better solution. One of you folks with a drill ought to send Lance an email and put one in. Alternatively, take the permadraw down and let the climb just be one of those with a bit of a bite to it (there are some classic 5.11 sport climbs in NM with minor runouts / hard clips, so it's good practice to learn to deal with them; and there are plenty of other great 5.11s at El Rito that people can do without worrying about hard clips/longer falls).

I climbed it a couple times a while ago (before the permadraw went in), but haven't since, so I don't have a good perspective on how unreasonable the runout and clip is, although I survived and ultimately sent, I do remember complaining about it the first time. May 31, 2016

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