Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,057 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Apr 26, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Steep but more positive-than-they-look holds lead past the first three bolts with good clipping stances. Move up to the lip/bulge on good holds and clip the fourth bolt at the lip. The original fourth bolt is left and up a tad but is in bad shape--don't use.

Then blast into the thin, gaston-action crux to get over the lip. Grab some welcomed larger holds, clip the fifth bolt, get to the lip and veer hard left to the shared anchor with Village Cobbler.

Location

The middle route on the east side of the beer block (to the right of Village Cobbler)

Protection

5 bolts to shared anchor with Village Cobbler

Photos

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
Who sez there ain't slab climbing at el rito? May 13, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
I went to replace the beat up and less-than-ideally-placed fourth bolt/hanger today but couldn't get it out of the hole despite working on it for quite a while. I did place a new fourth bolt down and to the right a bit from the original that keeps the quickdraw in a much better location. I'll go back with a crowbar and cutting tool at some point for the old fourth bolt. In the meantime there are currently two bolts about 14" apart for the fourth bolt. Clip the new one! Jul 22, 2017