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Routes in Beer Block

12-pack Link S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
BYOB S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Buddha's Beer Belly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Beerto S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It's Time to Drink Beer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Kings S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tecate Two-Step S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Whine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thing, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
To Beer or Not to Beer S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Village Cobbler S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Whipper Wonderland S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 1,584 total, 11/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Apr 20, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Sequency problem beginning at around the second to last bolt, with a power move through "the wave" at the top, to a large jug just above the left anchor bolt. Clean fall as overhung as the rock is.

Location

Looking at the west facing side of beer block, the route is all the way over to the right. Not the severly overhung route (which is 5.13), but the one just to the left of that that is only mildly steep until you hit the top of the climb. Climb is #50 in the El Rito online guide.

Protection

4 bolts to bolt anchors.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch. May 13, 2014
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
I tried to onsight this, and took the big whip from the crux last move, and bashed up my heel, elbow, and head, thankfully not badly but bad enough to end my day. It seems like maybe I just took a weird fall, but before my next attempt, I'll try to get more specific beta, and I'll wear a helmet. This climb's kind of scary in my (wimpy) opinion. Mar 22, 2014
hunter  
Lance,
I don't think the bolt is an immediate danger but it is a spinner and I think repeated falls have chewed up the threads enough it will be very hard to tighten so replacement is probably in order at some point.

James Aug 9, 2010
lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
FA Lance Hadfield this route was graded 5.11d but it might be because I new were the holds were. is the bolt still good or does it need some love? Jun 15, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
Judging by wiggle action on that last bolt, it has definitely seen some action! It stopped my repeated falls so it's obviously still good enough. Jul 19, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
Not so hard once you get the crux, but if you don't stick the dynamic move to the top, you're off to whipper wonderland. All air, big air. Don't you dare ask for beta. Feb 26, 2008