Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,125 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This climb is the first crack on the left side of circus wall and is well left of the 'big top' roof. Although Swain decribes this as a finger crack, I would not go so far as to do so. In fact, the crux was best protected (nearest protected?) by a brass nut (#1 HB Anchor).
Find this crack and start up it. protect the bottom however possible including a small nut at the crux, then pull the climb's crux at the sloping flaring part of the crack before attaining an easier face. The pro is a little tricky. Romp up the moderate crack to a ledge with a bulge above. Protect the bulge and climb it (5.9-?) at an obvious crack. Top out and belay down and behind a rock a few meters back off of ~1"to 1.5" gear.


This route is perhaps 15 meters left of the big arching roof of circus wall and about 2 meters right of a lone bolt on the nearby route "Human Cannonball."


A standard light rack with some flat brass nuts ~ the size of a #2 BD stopper. Heads-up and possibly a bit dangerous.