Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Circus Wall

Big Top T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Careful of Clowns T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Circus Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crowd Pleaser T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elephant Man T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Wire T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Human Cannonball T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Lion Tamer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Main Attraction T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sideshow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unknown 5.10a T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 5.11C T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Unknown 5.9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 458 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This climb is the first crack on the left side of circus wall and is well left of the 'big top' roof. Although Swain decribes this as a finger crack, I would not go so far as to do so. In fact, the crux was best protected (nearest protected?) by a brass nut (#1 HB Anchor).
Find this crack and start up it. protect the bottom however possible including a small nut at the crux, then pull the climb's crux at the sloping flaring part of the crack before attaining an easier face. The pro is a little tricky. Romp up the moderate crack to a ledge with a bulge above. Protect the bulge and climb it (5.9-?) at an obvious crack. Top out and belay down and behind a rock a few meters back off of ~1"to 1.5" gear.

Location

This route is perhaps 15 meters left of the big arching roof of circus wall and about 2 meters right of a lone bolt on the nearby route "Human Cannonball."

Protection

A standard light rack with some flat brass nuts ~ the size of a #2 BD stopper. Heads-up and possibly a bit dangerous.

Photos

EFS
5.10 PG13
EFS  
5.10 PG13


nice climb, i couldnt find it in swains red rocks select guide book when i was there almost 20 years ago, but it looked cool and very doable so i went for it. pro was good but a bit of fidgeting to get decent placements, and sewed it up pretty good because i was pretty sure i wouldnt want to have tested any single piece by itself...... Jul 25, 2012