Avg: 0.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|Page Views:||194 total · 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionI initially figured that this route was named in the theme of a circus act and nothing more, but having done it now, I picture the name clearly when I imagine falling from the route. No doubt it would be spectacular. But no net would await.
Climb up on moderate moves to t sloping ledge and work out and right on slopers of shrinking size to clip the only bolt. CLimb crux moves left of this bolt and up, them slightly right to reach easier territory just as runout gets truly disconcerting the climbing eases up to 5.8, but the crux is off of your gear enough to produce an interesting fall. I thought it was likely 5.10-. Gear can be had above, but it is poor. Continue to the ledge and pick an exit on so-so rock and gear to top out.
LocationAt the far left end of the Circus wall, some distance left of the arch, a single bolt can be seen a few meters left of a crack. Climb up the face in this general vicinity.
ProtectionBlank to a single bolt with a spinning hanger out high and right - hard to clip for anyone shorter than average. Then a few pieces of dicey gear (shallow horizontal alien in so-so rock and a trick #6 (or about that)stopper in a left-pointing near horizontal placement just above that. Don't fall. Gear above the ledge depends on what exact line is taken, I did it to the right on some TCU's.
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