Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 204 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

I initially figured that this route was named in the theme of a circus act and nothing more, but having done it now, I picture the name clearly when I imagine falling from the route. No doubt it would be spectacular. But no net would await.

Climb up on moderate moves to t sloping ledge and work out and right on slopers of shrinking size to clip the only bolt. CLimb crux moves left of this bolt and up, them slightly right to reach easier territory just as runout gets truly disconcerting the climbing eases up to 5.8, but the crux is off of your gear enough to produce an interesting fall. I thought it was likely 5.10-. Gear can be had above, but it is poor. Continue to the ledge and pick an exit on so-so rock and gear to top out.

Location

At the far left end of the Circus wall, some distance left of the arch, a single bolt can be seen a few meters left of a crack. Climb up the face in this general vicinity.

Protection

Blank to a single bolt with a spinning hanger out high and right - hard to clip for anyone shorter than average. Then a few pieces of dicey gear (shallow horizontal alien in so-so rock and a trick #6 (or about that)stopper in a left-pointing near horizontal placement just above that. Don't fall. Gear above the ledge depends on what exact line is taken, I did it to the right on some TCU's.

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Cathie Yun  
 
Highly advise to avoid unless on TR (it's possible to set up a trad anchor by walking up to dog wall, or after doing high wire).

The safest way to clip the bolt is by climbing the crack (10ft to the left of the bolt) to the ledge and traversing across, placing pro as you go. Don't fall above the bolt, as you will hit the ledge. Above the bolt, there is so-so pro right about in ground fall territory. Dec 1, 2015