Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,607 total · 36/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Apr 6, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This route starts just to the left of where the Solar Slab route starts up from the terrace. There is a prominent corner that curves up and to the left, forming an arch. Climb up the slab, heading for a patch of varnish that is about twenty feet below and to the right of the bottom of the corner. Protection is available here. Go up and left to the corner and follow it to a bolted belay station. (5.8)

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner above, passing two protection bolts, until you can tunnel up underneath the arch (5.9). Belay on a good ledge that is halfway up the second pitch of Solar Slab.

Pitch 3: Climb up and right about twenty feet to reach the bottom of a clean finger crack. Follow this straight up (5.9) for a long pitch to the belay station at the top of Solar Slab's pitch 3. (The upper part of this pitch has been used as a variation to Solar Slab, sometimes unintentionally.)

From this point, you can continue to the top on Solar Slab, or rappel using bolted rap stations.


standard rack, maybe a few extras in the finger-size range for the upper crack
Jason D. Martin  
Maybe I'm just a wimp, but I'd have to say that the second pitch of this is a solid 10a, maybe even 10b. It's certainly harder than other 5.9s I've done on the Solar Slab Wall.

Jason Apr 7, 2006
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Naw-- the other 5.9s are probably soft... Apr 23, 2006
Jason D. Martin  
I just climbed this line again today and I think I'm going to stick with my 10a rating. It's definitely harder than Sunflower, Sundog, or Bhuela's Book...

Just below the bolts on the right hand side there is a double crack system. The upper of the two crack systems (the one further from the wall) harbors the smaller of the two cracks. This is a very inviting crack for #1 Camalots or the equivalent. Be aware that the flake that makes up this crack is loose. This piece of rock moved when I leaned against it. The rock probably weighs well over a thousand pounds, so be careful!

Jason Dec 15, 2007
I think the route is great. The finger crack on the third pitch was just amazing. The tunneling was, ummm, interesting. But 10a? More like really awkward 5.8. Oct 22, 2010
smassey   CO
On 13 March, the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the two horribly rusted pro bolts on pitch 2, and one of the anchor bolts on the pitch 1 anchor. The other is a decent looking 5-piece. The bolts are 3/8x2.25 SS, and the anchor was equipped with links and rings. The unsightly wad of tat was removed. Mar 14, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Very nice option on the upper tier. Pretty standard 5.9 arm bars with foot smearing, then standard chimney. The third pitch finger crack is spectacular and should not be missed - has a couple short 5.9ish sections as well. Nov 13, 2011
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Fun route, finger crack 3rd pitch lived up to the hype, so fun. Thought getting to the second bolt on p2 was a little exciting, moving up the sandy, hollow pillar thing, but reasonable. Chimney part was a hoot. Mar 30, 2014
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
Can the rap from the top of Arch Enemy be done with one rope? It's been awhile since I've been up there and I don't remember... Oct 12, 2014
smassey   CO
^^^Joe, the raps can be done with a single 60m, but the one from the top of the first pitch of Solar Slab will leave you at the top of the no-pro 5.4 section. If you're not comfy down-soloing a few slab moves, a 70m will take you down into 3rd class terrain where it's not too bad to scramble down. Oct 16, 2014
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The first pitch was a bit unnerving getting to the dark patch and continuing above unsure when gear might appear (but there is enough placements). A 4 camalot was nice to have for the 2nd pitch. Glad the slot was not any tighter for my claustrophobic self! Nov 2, 2015
Mike S  
To clarify a bit of smassey's comment:
I don't think Arch Enemy could be rapped from the top of the finger crack/Solar Slab p3 chains with a single 60m.
It's a 35m rap climbers' left to the second belay stance. From here a 60m would work per his beta. Bring a 70m. Nov 4, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
I am so glad we didn't let the imposing appearance of this route deter us from giving it a try. It really is worth doing and the holds and gear appear just where you want them.

On P2, as with most offwidth, chimney-type features, I suspect that a climber's size could make the difference between loving it and hating it. My partner and I are both "petite" (under 5'1") and we could wiggle deeper into the chimney and work some of the face features that might be out of reach of those with more body mass.

To us, it felt like an honest 5.9, though much less sustained than the 5.9 chimneys on Epi.

I found a sweet .5 placement in a vertical slot on the smooth face to my right inside the chimney, which nicely protected this section above my #3.5 place at the mouth of the tunnel.

The moves between the bolts are fun combos of chicken wings and smearing which feel surprisingly secure.

If you are climbing with a pack, be sure to drop it before you leave the belay so you can work your right shoulder against wall.

We found a rack of singles to #4 to work well, with a few extra finger sizes if you are continuing to the P3 finger crack. Mar 17, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.10a PG13
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.10a PG13
Pitch 1 was run out AF! unless your placing marginal good for nothing tiny brass nuts. basically your gonna have to solo up to the base of the corner (the protection in the "varnished spot" is only gonna protect your for a little bit then your soloing again.) Nov 30, 2016
Climbing Ivy
Climbing Ivy   Reno-Tahoe
Great fun! The climbing is more secure and mellow than the imposing appearance of the line suggests. We found plentiful gear/nuts placement opportunities on P1, maybe except the first 40 feet first off the deck (but it's low angle at that point). Have to agree P2 is closer to 5.8 as far as chimneys go. I'm 5'8" and my partner is 6'1" and not particularly anorexic; we both found the chimney section a hoot. Not too claustrophobic or awkward. Yes there're sections of delicate softer white rock inside the chimney, along with the standard fare of a flexing hollow flake behind you, but nothing too sandy or imminently unsafe - just climb with care and not muscle your way up, you would be rewarded with a fun lead! P3 is nice and long without any part standing out as cruxy. A single rack to #3 works well for us.

An overall fun mellow climb and a great link up with Beulah's Book. Dec 1, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
The wide stuff is about as grunty as Epinephrine, but shorter, so yeah 5.9 makes sense. The moves at the two bolts on P2 is the crux, not the chimney itself. P3 is fine even if you aren't great at finger cracks. Start super early if you want to beat the noobs up the rest of Solar Slab. The rapps from here and through the gully are not fun and felt like they took longer than the ascent. Jan 17, 2018
- Sar Rēgan
Bend, OR
- Sar Rēgan   Bend, OR
Had a blast on this route. I would agree that the difficultly depends on your height and therefore your ability to actually chimney up the squeeze. I am 5'2'' and it was like 5.8 to me, but my climbing partner (over 6') couldn't quite get into it. Finally, an opportunity for the little ones to have an advantage! Dig in deep for some holds with infinity purchase. Feb 6, 2018
Isaac   Portland
Climbed this on Wednesday and had the entire Solar Slab to ourselves. For p2, my follower said she found it easier to stay toward the outside when climbing through the tunnel. Regarding the rappel, a single 70m will get you from the first set of anchors onto 5.4 terrain (not class 3), so people should still expect about 50 feet of solid down climbing to the big ledge. Not a big deal, but we were a bit surprised after reading the beta on how much down climbing there ended up being. Dec 15, 2018