All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Upper Tier

Heliotrope

Name: Heliotrope
Rating: 2.7

5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R

Routes in Solar Slab - Upper Tier

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arch Enemy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Change Up T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Going Nuts T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Heliotrope T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Kelly's Heroes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Solar Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sundog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sunflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sunspot Ridge T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	36.10372, -115.48775
FA:	John Hegyes, Ryan McPhee, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views:	8,779 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This is an excellent route straight up the middle of the Solar Slab. It lies to the right of Solar Slab and to the left of Sunflower, but is independent of both lines. The climbing difficulty does not exceed 5.8, but pitch 4 features some old-school slab runouts.

Pitch 1: Directly above the top of the approach gully, there is a black, left-facing corner. Pleasant climbing follows the corner to the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch on Solar Slab.

Pitch 2: Continue up the right-slanting finger crack. Belay at the ledge shared with the second belay on Sunflower. (These first two pitches have been long-used as a variation start to the Sunflower route.)

Pitch 3: Climb up and left to a small pedestal to the left of the Sunflower corner. Traverse left for 10 or 15 feet to a very small, right-facing corner with a thin crack. Follow the crack until it ends, then set up a gear belay in a scoop, using thin cams.

Pitch 4: Climb up the slab above, aiming for the crack visible about a hundred feet straight above. Protection opportunities are limited. Set up the belay as high as possible in the varnished plates (in order to have enough rope for the last pitch).

Pitch 5: The payoff pitch! Proceed straight up the glorious face on relatively easy climbing until you can set up a belay after about 59 meters. At this point you can either join Solar Slab for the 3rd class pitch and cruise to the top, or rappel the main slab.