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Routes in (2) Brogan Spire

Barred Reality S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cave Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eternal Stoke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pouches S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Frenchman’s Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Walking on Broken Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 888 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This one is worth doing if you are in the area for the Cave Route but not worth the hike alone.

An unusual route for Smith, overhanging jugs.

Swing your way up the overhanging monkey bars to an anchor.

Location

In the Cave Route alcove (see that route for approach). There are three short overhanging sport climbs here, this is the left most and more difficult of the three.

Protection

bolts

Photos

If walking on broken glass is the leftmost of the three and is 11a what are the ratings on the other two? Feb 24, 2008
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Definitely the easiest 11a I've ever climbed. Sep 16, 2012
Rod J.
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Rod J.   Bend, OR
  5.11a
I've seen many '11' climbers fail at the top. They didn't think that it was so easy. I do think that it is easier than 'Magic Light'. Jun 20, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10d
Very easy 5.11a. More like 5.10c if you clip the anchors from below. 11a if you try to get above the anchor for easy clipping. Dec 31, 2014
More like a 5.10 cruiser with a cruxy move to the anchors, unless you clip from below. Super fun route though! Definitely worth doing if in the area though! Aug 27, 2016

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