Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bruce Watson, Brian Watson, Charles Cuningham, 1970|
|Page Views:||1,693 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Sean Ferrell on Nov 16, 2008|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
The route angle will flatten out, and you will find yourself at the bottom of a short section of exposed vertical rock.
With your left leg hanging over the abyss, find the solution jug, and mantle your way to another flat section, which seems to pass over a tunnel through the rock (though it's hard to tell from the top). [Note: this is not mentioned in the Watts book- there is probably an easier line, but this way looked really nice].
From there, follow the line of least resistance to the awesome spire summit, where you will find rap anchors.
For me, the first pitch was reminiscent of the final pitch of the Traveller's Buttress at Lover's Leap: long, exposed, with solid knobs and edges. Pass through or over tunnels, around corners, and enjoy the creative routefinding in truly three dimensional terrain on both this and the adjacent Cave Route (South Buttress is much better, I think).
Most pleasant is the varied, somewhat athletic approach, incredible views of the sisters, broken top, and bachelor, an awesome summit, and all with no one around. Dreamy.
The easiest way to get down seems to be to rappel the Cave Route. A sixty meter rope should make the belays, though I used a forty five, and down-climbed a fifteen foot section of dirty rock (not recommended).