All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Brogan Spire

Southside Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Southside

L › R R › L A › Z

	Barred Reality S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cave Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	East Jesus Nowhere S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	L'Eggo My Eggo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Party Animal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Pigs in a Blanket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
	Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Walking on Broken Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

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Elevation:	3,331 ft	1,015 m
GPS:	44.3687, -121.12383 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,641 total · 140/month
Shared By:	Kevin Piarulli on May 19, 2020
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

The "backside" of Brogan contains a good selection of easier climbs, from 5.5 multipitch romps to steep 5.10 sport climbs. Get sun morning to mod afternoon, but some routes are shaded earlier. The Tail and Opossum are features that are a continuation of the Brogan Spire formation on the uphill side.

Getting There

The most common approach takes the trail toward Brogan Spire's North Face, then crossing over a 4th class notch between Brogan Spire and Mini Half Dome. This involves climbing a chimney, then descending a polished water groove. Another good approach option is to take a trail that stays low along the canal and walk around the base of the Mudpile then up the hill.

13 Total Climbs

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Location:	Southside Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Southside

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X 6 ● South Buttress Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X 15 ● West Face Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 81 ● Cave Route Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 53 ● Death Of a Raven Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 55 ● Short Sharp Shock Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 38 ● Walking on Broken Glass Sport