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> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (w) The Marsupials
> Brogan Spire
> Southside
Cave Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2.9 from 80
votes
Routes in Southside
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Barred Reality S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cave Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Jesus Nowhere S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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L'Eggo My Eggo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Party Animal S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pigs in a Blanket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Walking on Broken Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ted Davis and Jon Marshall 1963 |
| Page Views: | 9,207 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Smith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.
Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.
Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.
Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6
Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy rock to the summit spire and enjoy the view. 5.4
Descent: Rap the route with two ropes
Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.
Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.
Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6
Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy rock to the summit spire and enjoy the view. 5.4
Descent: Rap the route with two ropes
Location
start in an alcove on the East side of the formation. there are three short and overhanging sport climbs just left of the start of this route.
Approach by hiking past Koala Rock to a chimney between Brogan Spire's south end and Mini Half Dome (5.0) then turn up hill and hike along the base of the formation and pass through a tunnel where a large block leans against the face. The alcove is just above there.
Approach by hiking past Koala Rock to a chimney between Brogan Spire's south end and Mini Half Dome (5.0) then turn up hill and hike along the base of the formation and pass through a tunnel where a large block leans against the face. The alcove is just above there.
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