Avg: 2.9 from 40 votes
Routes in (2) Brogan Spire
|Barred Reality T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Cave Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R|
|Death Of a Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pouches S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Short Sharp Shock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Smash the Silence S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|South Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X|
|Under the Gun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Walking on Broken Glass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|West Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Ted Davis and Jon Marshall 1963|
|Page Views:||5,153 total, 36/month|
|Shared By:||Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionSmith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.
Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.
Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.
Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6
Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy rock to the summit spire and enjoy the view. 5.4
Descent: Rap the route with two ropes
Locationstart in an alcove on the East side of the formation. there are three short and overhanging sport climbs just left of the start of this route.
Approach by hiking past Koala Rock to a chimney between Brogan Spire's south end and Mini Half Dome (5.0) then turn up hill and hike along the base of the formation and pass through a tunnel where a large block leans against the face. The alcove is just above there.