Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ted Davis and Jon Marshall 1963
Page Views: 5,903 total · 38/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Smith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.
Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.

Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.

Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6

Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy rock to the summit spire and enjoy the view. 5.4

Descent: Rap the route with two ropes

Location

start in an alcove on the East side of the formation. there are three short and overhanging sport climbs just left of the start of this route.

Approach by hiking past Koala Rock to a chimney between Brogan Spire's south end and Mini Half Dome (5.0) then turn up hill and hike along the base of the formation and pass through a tunnel where a large block leans against the face. The alcove is just above there.

Protection

small rack and draws
bryans  
This route is usually done in two pitches. from the cave, follow the obvious boltline to the summit in one pitch (rather than climbing up the manky and poorly protected corner to an intermediate belay). good date climb. Jun 19, 2006
corvegas
the depths of oregon
corvegas   the depths of oregon
More like 5.6R definatly not X any more. Fully bolted to the final 5.4 summit moves. Feb 6, 2007
mebbing
Bend, Oregon
mebbing   Bend, Oregon
I chose to lead "up the manky and poorly protected corner to an intermediate belay." The excellent perch up on that shoulder is indeed a fantastic place to spend some time, but I do believe if I climb this again, I will just follow the bolt line that is obivous from the cave... The "run-out groove" corner we climbed was fun, but was mostly loose, and other than 2 bolts, is pretty run-out. (the loose, sandy crack might take a #1 or #.75 cam, but I wouldn't want to fall on it!)

We did a double-rope rap from summit down east. After we all rapped, upon pulling the rope the knot between our two ropes got stuck on the little ledge just a foot or two in front of the big rap anchor up top. Took us a little while, but after pulling both rope ends far right the knot popped over the edge and we were able to pull the ropes down. I only mention because it turns out the same thing happened to the only other group that climbed it the same day as us. Jun 17, 2008
JohnK
Bend, Oregon
JohnK   Bend, Oregon
An alternate descent from the Brogan Spire summit with one rope:
Rap from the summit anchors towards the ridge where there are two anchor bolts at the top of the original 2nd pitch gully. This requires a bit of "walking" while "on rappel" east along the ridge to the anchors. Then rap from these anchors to the cave. Walk from the cave to the first pitch anchors (two bolts) and make the short rap back to your packs. Jun 29, 2008
Kyle S
 
Kyle S  
 
Strange route with a fun summit if you're up some chicanery. P1 is hard for the grade with crux moves well above your last bolt. P2 anchors have only 1 single bolt remaining as of 4/2018 with spots for gear that require some creativity (moot if you link P2-P3, as suggested by others). P3 is unprotected, albeit with very mellow and secure climbing, and a plethora of solid bolts awaits on top.

We rapped (off the southwest end) in two pitches using a single 70 with inches to spare (beware). There seemed to be alternative raps if your rope is shorter than mine, but they require using some less appealing anchors. We did not see the anchors mentioned by JohnK (though that was 10 years ago). Apr 15, 2018