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Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur

Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Page Views: 961 total · 7/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 2, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

Continuously challenging throughout, this very nice route has a technical crux midway to a large ledge. From here, a tenuous balancy move up and right leads to the anchor.

Location

Right side of the North Wall. It's the first bolted route left of the crack line, Absence of Authority.

Protection

Bolts with bolt rap anchors.

Photos

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Great route on impeccable stone. Do it! Sep 2, 2017
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10c
I never felt very positive on this route but it is a good route and worth doing. The crux is definitely in the middle and then you are rewarded with a ledge with some really good holds. If you stand on the ledge for a rest, I wouldn't climb any higher but try and traverse right on the thin edges at your feet before going for the chains. Jul 12, 2009