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Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur

Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Doug Colwell
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This arete route has a lot of enjoyable moves and a good position but is somewhat contrived in a couple spots. The start can be skipped by scrambling up some boulders to the right and stepping onto the route above the first bolt, and the crux (just below the roof/right-veering crack) can be by-passed by following the chalked holds left a few feet to the crack and then heading back up and right. Avoiding the crux makes the route around
10b.

Location

Far right corner of the North Wall, on the arete. Just around the arete corner is The Crack House.

Protection

Bolts with rap anchors at the top.

Photos

Kirk Squier
Ketchum, Idaho
Kirk Squier   Ketchum, Idaho
Doug Colwell route. Oct 26, 2014
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.11a
I thought that the crux was below the first roof. It is a little section of slab with nothing but razor thin edges to hold onto. Fortunately, I am a little taller and was able to reach a good hold below the roof after finding a decent place to get some friction with my feet. Getting over each of the 2 roofs was very interesting and was probably the highlight for me since I don't do crimps or roofs very well. Jul 12, 2009