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Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur

Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 531 total · 4/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

This route starts with a somewhat dirty but fun 5.9+ dihedral. After about 70' you reach a small roof where the real challenges start. Protect well before leaving the crack and launching up into devious thin face moves (crux) leading to a seam that protects only with very small gear (ie. RPs, etc). Finish by veering right on a horizontal crack that leads to the top anchors of Hairstyles and Attitudes.

Note: The start of the route has vegetation in the crack that can be climbed around. Please don't remove any more vegetation at the start of this climb.

Location

Just left of Hairstyle and Attitudes and left around the corner from the Crack House. This is the crack line at the far right side of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 2 1/2" and small wires/gear (RPs, Lowe Balls...)

Photos

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Hmmm. We avoided this because of the plants in the crack. The authorities may be less absent after seeing these kinds of routes go in. Sep 21, 2015

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