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Routes in Castle Rock - North Spur

Absence of Authority T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Hairstyles and Attitudes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus and Einstein S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milk Toast S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Climb for Old Men S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
North Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Pitch 1: Chris Barnes 2010 Pitch 2: Chris Barnes and Mike Engle
Page Views: 457 total, 6/month
Shared By: Phil on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description

A tough couple moves off the ground and some getting to the last bolt. Might want to stick clip the second bolt because the first won't be enough to keep you off the slab below.

There is a second pitch that works it way up and right then finishes on the right side of a prominent pillar, 5.7. Not particularly great second pitch except the view might make it worth it.

Location

Just left of the small chimney, this route goes up a face.

Protection

8-ish bolts to bolted anchors of the first pitch. Chain anchors at the top of the second pitch allows you to get down to the first pitch anchors on "No Climb for Old Men"

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I was happy to stick clip the second bolt! Sep 2, 2017