Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA: John Burcham and ??
Page Views: 14,139 total · 88/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below.

P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left.

P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed belay.

P3) Climb up into slot behind the top of the buttress and tunnel right behind it until you can exit to the right. A couple of face moves up and further right will put you on top of the limestone layer and a fixed anchor. Short pitch.

P4) Climb crack above and right of the anchor to good shelf with fixed anchors.

P5) Fingercrack in corner, good layback crack. Then short offwidth section leading to "dirt clod" (be careful not to damage this!). Surmount the dirt clod and climb up to a ledge in corner with anchors.

P6) Climb up nice steep finger crack (5.9) to flat summit. I found the moves right at the top to be the crux on this one.

Descent: Since I climbed this route, the rappels have been moved. Call the Flag gym to see if they have updated info.

Location

Coyote Tower is a long slim tower formation that clings to the southeast corner of Courthouse Butte. To reach the start of the route, you have to hike below the tower on the flats until you're just past it and then scramble up ledges and slabs to reach the start atop a rounded buttress.

Protection

Standard rack, Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot size. Bolts will be found on the first two pitches.

Photos