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Routes in Courthouse Butte

A Day in Court T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Coyote Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Justice of the Peace T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prosecutor, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
South Bowl Route (Right) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches
FA: John Burcham and ??
Page Views: 12,889 total · 89/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 24, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


115 Opinions

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Description

Coyote Tower is an exceptional route with lots of good pitches. From the summit, the views are really cool as well and you'll be amazed at how high up you get. Start as described below.

P1) Climb up multi-bulge face (5.8) with bolts to a fixed anchor above. Then scramble up to the base of the second pitch up and left.

P2) Crux pitch. There are a couple stiff spots on this pitch, but basically climb in crack system left of a buttress, with an overhanging tight-hands crack at the top to a fixed belay.

P3) Climb up into slot behind the top of the buttress and tunnel right behind it until you can exit to the right. A couple of face moves up and further right will put you on top of the limestone layer and a fixed anchor. Short pitch.

P4) Climb crack above and right of the anchor to good shelf with fixed anchors.

P5) Fingercrack in corner, good layback crack. Then short offwidth section leading to "dirt clod" (be careful not to damage this!). Surmount the dirt clod and climb up to a ledge in corner with anchors.

P6) Climb up nice steep finger crack (5.9) to flat summit. I found the moves right at the top to be the crux on this one.

Descent: Since I climbed this route, the rappels have been moved. Call the Flag gym to see if they have updated info.

Location

Coyote Tower is a long slim tower formation that clings to the southeast corner of Courthouse Butte. To reach the start of the route, you have to hike below the tower on the flats until you're just past it and then scramble up ledges and slabs to reach the start atop a rounded buttress.

Protection

Standard rack, Nuts, cams from 1/2" to #4 Camalot size. Bolts will be found on the first two pitches.
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
Awesome!!! Swapped leads on this great adventure climb. The crux pitch (followed this) was tough, good job Joe!!! Highly recommend this one!!! Nov 26, 2007
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
Such an amazing route, one of the best in Sedona... upon reaching the top, my partner and I would have preferred to simply flutter off into the heavens instead of rap down, but we had school the next day, so what can ya do. What makes this route so damned good? Beautiful setting, radical crack lines, deluxe belay ledges, cool summit, and a LOT of solid 5.9 climbing.

P1: Slab with three individual headwalls, each with decking potential. The second one felt most difficult. (5.8 *)
P2: Juicy featured corner, cruxy pod halfway up and then a bigger and cruxier pod right below the anchors. (5.10 ****)
P3: Clamber through tunnel and walk cactus-infested limestone band over to two-bolt anchor. (4th class)
P4: Fun bulgy crack system, some sandy spots for thrill, ample features keep it moderate. (5.9 **)
P5: The stuff of dreams. Perfect layback corner, eats all sizes of gear. (5.9 ****)
P6: That delightful combination of continuously good pro and equally continuous exposure sought by every intrepid trad climber. Final offwidth capstone makes for a wild climax! (5.9+ ****)

Gear: The route could be done with a single rack were it not for P2. This pitch calls for doubles in C4 sizes .75, 1, 2, and 3. None of the pitches require a #4 cam so I would leave it at home.

Rappel: We followed Darren's advice to leave the second rope at the top of P1 (see above) and found this to be a good tactic. However if doing this route again, I would rap all pitches with a single rope, downclimbing/reversing the P3 traverse to get to P2 anchors. Nov 1, 2016
Jim Giordano 1
Phoenix, AZ
Jim Giordano 1   Phoenix, AZ
Climbed this route today in beautiful February weather. Overall a really excellent route with lots of quality climbing. Took a bit of effort to find the start of the first pitch, but eventually spotted a bolt up high. Unless I was off on the start location (don't think so) only good pro in the first 25+ feet is the #3C4 in a Hueco about 10 feet off the deck. I found the steep, slabby moves well above that to be pretty tenuous with VERY real groundfall potential if blown. I am kind of suprised that no other commenters have mentioned this? The route otherwise protects well. Brought the rack suggested by Danny G. and had no complaints. Placed the #4 twice. Swung leads with my buddy who, thankfully, lead the second pitch steller, albeit burly, pitch. Cranked so hard on some of those thing hand jams, I found myself wishing I had taped up. Climbed with a 60 and only combined the second and third pitches. Great route, great day. Feb 20, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10+
Nice T-shirt day yesterday and had route to ourselves. Few more notes/tips:
Approach: when following the slick rock wash, trail breaks off just before a man-made retaining wall.
Rack: similar to Danny's recommendation above, but I used - offset MCs purp to red, (1).3-.5 C4, (2) .75 C4, (3)1-2C4, (2)3C4, (1)4C4.

P1: nice spot for #3C4 in first hueco off the deck.
P2: save a 1,2,3C4 for the last 30'.
P3: clean as a whistle compared to 5 yrs ago.
P4: thought this had the most junk rock of the route though easier.
P5: nice corner climbing with great feet throughout. "Dirt clod" is nothing unusual to typical Sedona choss. Bolt protects mantle above it.
P6: nice and exposed with good rests. Rock is a bit hollow at the mid crux.

Raps: instead of dragging/leaving a second rope up to the limestone anchors of P3, another tactic could be to leave it at the P1 anchors. Rap single line from P3-P1 then partner can pull the second line up tied to it to rap from. Nov 24, 2015
Danny G.
Flagstaff, Arizona
Danny G.   Flagstaff, Arizona
Definitely stop at the bolted anchor on p1 if you have a 60m rope. Ya can't combine it with the scramble to the base of p2 (and makes for sketchy simulclimbing if you try). A 70m would have worked fine though.
James Q and I had a blast on an otherwise chilly day. High was 40 in Flag but clear and sunny. With an 11am start we were warm and stoked.
I could have used more #1 and #2 C4s near top of crux pitch (p2). Here's what I'll bring next time:
1-Red C3
2-.3 C4
2-.4 C4
2-.5 C4
2-.75 C4
3-1.0 C4
3-2.0 C4
2-3.0 C4
1-4.0 C4
-a few medium nuts
-my 2 fav. medium slung Hexes (yeah, I know...but they're soooo bomber!)
6-extendable slings (not a lot of wandering)
8-draws
SUPER FUN!! Nov 21, 2014
Greg Malloure
Prescott Az
 
Greg Malloure   Prescott Az
 
If you are looking for a fun link up you can climb Coyote Tower and then walk over to Oak Creek Spire. The walk takes about an hour from base to base. It is a little route findy but there are plenty of washes and random trails to follow. Even a faint trail going up the saddle of oak spire on the southside. This day makes for about ten pitches averaging five nine, two pitches of 5.8 plus to keep you on your toes and two classic sedona jumps in one day of climbing. Nov 7, 2013
Sayfe
Scottsdale, az
  5.10c
Sayfe   Scottsdale, az
  5.10c
Pitch I- run out, but well protected at crux
Pitch II: crux, 10C, last 30 feet has two overhangs
Pitch III: just walk though the tunner
Pitch IV: nice 5.9- good pro Pitch V: excellent finger layback start
Pitch VI: steep 9, exposed, interesting last move.

Need two ropes (60) only for rappel from top of pitch III to top of pitch II (no need to drag second rope from top of pitch III to top).




Oct 29, 2013
climber andy
  5.10c
climber andy  
  5.10c
80m will get you down!!! On the fourth rappel you need to down climb a third class slop to reach the last rap station
Oct 14, 2013
Jacob Fishman
Phoenix, AZ
 
Jacob Fishman   Phoenix, AZ
 
Absolutely amazing climbing. Just make sure to hang a hard left once you hit the slabs on the approach (at a 10'-ish triangular shaped boulder), and do not go into the gully. Oct 5, 2013
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Thanks Mike Dec 20, 2011
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10
Erock you need 2 60's. Dec 20, 2011
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Can you rappel off this route with one 80m rope? Or do you need 2 60m ropes. I am climbing this tomorrow, anyone have a quick response?

Thanks Dec 20, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10d
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10d
Rainy season means even more loose rock and there is certainly plenty of it. Even p. 2 now has lots of little blocks going. Still an amazing route. Aug 4, 2011
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
 
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
 
There's no good approach beta listed, so here it goes. Take the trail below and past the tower until there is a gully that comes into view to the right of the tower. Head up towards the gully, but go left below the steep slabs guarding the tower. Don't go right up the gully as this will leave you dead ended. Contour the steep slabs left until you are dead ended below the tower on a pedestal of sorts. Look up the slabs above you about 50 ft. and you should see the bolts for the first pitch. Nov 14, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
No comments on the rap, so I thought I'd mention it's a plumb line from the top rap on down and you will have seen all the rap anchors on the way up. You do not rap the 2nd pitch but the 3rd pitch anchors land you at the 1st pitch rap anchors with two 60 meter ropes.

This is a great line, with the 2nd pitch being one of the better pitches I've done in AZ. Dec 22, 2009
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10c
Love this route. Leave the #4 behind, and go do it! Oct 31, 2009
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Super fun route! Every pitch is pretty engaging. Jul 26, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+
This climb is a lot of fun, and is pretty burly throughout!

One thing to watch out for: the first pitch has two ledges that are likely to tweak an ankle in the event of a fall. Make sure you're very attentive on belay! Apr 28, 2009
Brian Crockford
Boulder, CO
 
Brian Crockford   Boulder, CO
 
Takes great gear and has some bolts for supplemental protection. As of 4/19/09 the route has excellent belay anchors throughout. Rock was solid with the exception of the "tunnel" on pitch 3 that had a bunch of loose rock that you basically scramble over, and a loose block on pitch 4. For more info take a look at the route and approach topo/drawings uploaded in the photos section. Be safe, have fun! Apr 21, 2009
Bennett
Southern California
 
Bennett   Southern California
 
Climbed the route again for the third time on Nov 22. One of the safer and more classic lines in Sedona, and pitch two, crux pitch has to be one of the better sandstone pitches in AZ. Positioning on final pitch is phenomenal. A couple "muddy" spots but excellent quality overall. Second to last pitch if done as topo explains, has some loose blocks just above start and plugging good gear in the dihedral is crucial just off the belay... in my opinion the only slightly dicey moves of the route are here, other than easy but runout start on pitch one. Nov 29, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10
This route can be done in 4 pitches with a 70m rope & 3 pitches with an 80m, not including the optional jump-across pitch. Link pitches 2 & 3 (you get some rope drag during the 3rd pitch, but it is mostly 4th class anyway). Pitches 4 & 5 link very nicely with a 70, and one can continue up to the top (linking the final 3 pitches) with an 80.

The optional jump-across pitch at the end is fun to do once, but it is runout on mostly crappy rock then is still a bit of a hike (in climbing shoes) to the top. Rap back to the top of the tower off tree slings. Nov 14, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
This was a great climb. The (fifth?) dihedral pitch was so clean and nice! Although the third - fourth pitch are loose and a little disconcerting, this is a top Sedona offering.

CL Sep 17, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Just another great day of "Sandona" climbing. Aug 19, 2006
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.10+
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.10+
Such an amazing line! One of the cleanest cracks in Sedona, but I still pulled a giant block off, so wear your helmet! Mar 30, 2006

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