All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Village of Oak Creek > Bell Rock / Court… > Courthouse Butte
Avg: 3.2 from 19 votes
Routes in Courthouse Butte
|A Day in Court T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Coyote Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Justice of the Peace T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Prosecutor, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|South Bowl Route (Right) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,218 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||JacobD on Jun 3, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionPitch 1 5. 10-, Follow 8 bolts up fun shouldery stemming moves to about 25 feet of crack through a limestone band. Bring gear from .4 to 1 for this section to feel safer. This leads to a 2 bolt anchor at the base of the offwitdh!
Pitch 2: 5.11, Awesome!!! Perfect hands leads into a a gradually widening crack to pull a bulge. Take a good rest because the business is next. Pull through a #5 roof into a #6 crack for a couple of moves into a a squeeze chimney, try not to puke, and then continue up easy climbing to an awesome belay ledge with another bomber 2 bolt anchor! I took a #2, #3, 2 old #4 bd's, #4 tech friend, 1 #5 BD, and 2 #6 BD's and laced it up big time.
Pitch 3: 5.10, 6 bolts and a drilled angle. Awesome and fun traverse to the base of the 4th pitch. 2 bolt anchor rigged for rapelling if you choose not to continue.
Pitch 4: 5.10+- pg-13, mixed gear at least 5 bolts with a wide range of gear. Weird climbing through some bulges with lots of stemming and flared cracks. This leads into a squeeze through a big diving board type flake. After this head up into a hole pull on some pockets and out onto the face for the final bit. Loose rock at the top... Wish this thing topped out courthouse butte... 3 bolt anchor rigged for rapping.
Descent: 2 double rope raps with 60 meter ropes. 1st rap all the way past the traverse end anchors to a sweet ledge on the face, 2nd rap all the way to the ground.
Really fun climb, last pitch is WILD! Worth it in retrospect, but at the time it seemed awkward and a little bit funky. This pitch is super Sedony!
Amazing views and exposure, great belay ledges, the offwidth pitch is hard but protects super well.