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Routes in Courthouse Butte

A Day in Court T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Coyote Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Justice of the Peace T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prosecutor, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
South Bowl Route (Right) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Burcham
Page Views: 2,218 total, 16/month
Shared By: JacobD on Jun 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 5. 10-, Follow 8 bolts up fun shouldery stemming moves to about 25 feet of crack through a limestone band. Bring gear from .4 to 1 for this section to feel safer. This leads to a 2 bolt anchor at the base of the offwitdh!

Pitch 2: 5.11, Awesome!!! Perfect hands leads into a a gradually widening crack to pull a bulge. Take a good rest because the business is next. Pull through a #5 roof into a #6 crack for a couple of moves into a a squeeze chimney, try not to puke, and then continue up easy climbing to an awesome belay ledge with another bomber 2 bolt anchor! I took a #2, #3, 2 old #4 bd's, #4 tech friend, 1 #5 BD, and 2 #6 BD's and laced it up big time.

Pitch 3: 5.10, 6 bolts and a drilled angle. Awesome and fun traverse to the base of the 4th pitch. 2 bolt anchor rigged for rapelling if you choose not to continue.

Pitch 4: 5.10+- pg-13, mixed gear at least 5 bolts with a wide range of gear. Weird climbing through some bulges with lots of stemming and flared cracks. This leads into a squeeze through a big diving board type flake. After this head up into a hole pull on some pockets and out onto the face for the final bit. Loose rock at the top... Wish this thing topped out courthouse butte... 3 bolt anchor rigged for rapping.

Descent: 2 double rope raps with 60 meter ropes. 1st rap all the way past the traverse end anchors to a sweet ledge on the face, 2nd rap all the way to the ground.

Really fun climb, last pitch is WILD! Worth it in retrospect, but at the time it seemed awkward and a little bit funky. This pitch is super Sedony!

Amazing views and exposure, great belay ledges, the offwidth pitch is hard but protects super well.

Great climb!

Location

Park in the Bell Rock Pathway parking lot to the south of Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock. Hike on the good trail for a while angling towards Courthouse Butte aiming for the South Bowl. The left side of the bowl is where Flip Wilson (5.10) is. Follow the trail untill you are about in the middle of the bowl and then look for a faint climbers trail that goes up into it. Follow slabs for a while and try to stay on the trail. After a while you need to look for a ramp that goes up and to the left that will take you up to the left side of the bowl. Go up the ramp. If you see a two drilled angle anchor with webbing you are on the right path. From here follow it up to the left and aim towards a notch to the left of Flip Wilson. Follow a trail through the notch and down to the start of the Prosecutor.

Protection

10 quick draws/ or runners
Singles from .5 to 2
2 #3's
2-3 #4 camalots
2 #5's
1-#6

With this rack I laced it up.
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
An awesome, varied line that with some very unique sections. A .3 and .4 Camalot (or two .4s) are the key pieces at the top of pitch one, and also handy on pitch 4. A single rack to #2 C4 with one extra .75, 2 #3s, one new #4, one old #4 (or equivalent), and 1 #5 seemed sufficient. There is only 1 bolt on the crux OW. I didn't think a #6 was necessary. A dozen or more draws are handy, as the last pitch is long. You can do two raps with a single 70m to the last set of anchors, but two ropes or an 80m is necessary for the final rap. Jan 26, 2016
Just another perspective: there is one maybe two bomber bolts at the OW bulge on pitch 2. I brought two old style #3.5's and two old style #4.5's and have a note in my log to only bring one of each next time. Dave Bloom's guide lists there as being 2 bolts here and he recommends only one old style #4. Dec 23, 2013
JacobD
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JacobD   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I'm hoping to make it back for the redpoint on the offwidth pitch, I'll bring a camera and post some pictures. Dec 13, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Thanks for fixing this up Jacob! Nice work. Dec 12, 2011