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> Courthouse Butte
Flip Wilson Route (aka Here Comes the Judge)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 42
votes
Routes in Courthouse Butte
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A Day in Court T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Central South Rib T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A0 |
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Coyote Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Failure to Appear T A3- |
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Flip Wilson Route (aka Here Comes the Judge) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Justice of the Peace T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Prosecutor, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | John Burcham |
| Page Views: | 5,858 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Will Cobb on Apr 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Flip Wilson is a great mixed trad and sport route that ascends the southwestern arete of Courthouse Butte.
Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb a corner above the start ledge which starts as unprotectable 5.4 progressing to 5.6 and a #2 camalot placement. When the corner steepens look up and right for a #3 camalot placement behind a boulder. At this point mantle out of the corner up and right then climb easy 5.5 slabs to a two bolt belay/rap station. (~100') Leave your trad gear here as it is all bolted climbing from here.
Pitch 2a (5.10c) - Start up and left past two bolts then move right into a corner. Climb up the corner past several additional bolts to a ramp which leads to the next belay ledge. About 8 clips total. (~100') From here a 200' rappel will take you back to the start ledge.
Pitch 2b - Move the belay up 15' to a belay bolt on a large ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10a) - Fun face climbing past 12 bolts trending up and right to a two bolt rap station. (~120')
Descent - Two double rope raps down the route.
Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb a corner above the start ledge which starts as unprotectable 5.4 progressing to 5.6 and a #2 camalot placement. When the corner steepens look up and right for a #3 camalot placement behind a boulder. At this point mantle out of the corner up and right then climb easy 5.5 slabs to a two bolt belay/rap station. (~100') Leave your trad gear here as it is all bolted climbing from here.
Pitch 2a (5.10c) - Start up and left past two bolts then move right into a corner. Climb up the corner past several additional bolts to a ramp which leads to the next belay ledge. About 8 clips total. (~100') From here a 200' rappel will take you back to the start ledge.
Pitch 2b - Move the belay up 15' to a belay bolt on a large ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.10a) - Fun face climbing past 12 bolts trending up and right to a two bolt rap station. (~120')
Descent - Two double rope raps down the route.
Location
Flip Wilson ascends the Southwest Arete of Courthouse Butte. Approach as if climbing one of the "South Bowl" routes as described by Greg. Once up the initial 4th class ledges trend left to a notch which is right on the southwestern arete. If you travel through this notch it will take you to the start for the Prosecutor. Up and right from this notch is the start ledge for Flip Wilson.
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