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> Courthouse Butte
Central South Rib
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British A0
Avg: 2.2 from 23
votes
Routes in Courthouse Butte
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A Day in Court T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Central South Rib T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A0 |
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Coyote Tower T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Failure to Appear T A3- |
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Flip Wilson Route (aka Here Comes the Judge) T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Justice of the Peace T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Prosecutor, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 1500 ft (455 m) |
| FA: | Unknown 1930’s |
| Page Views: | 4,764 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Apr 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
As laid out in Tim Toula's guide, this route comes off fairly trivial. In reality, most of it is pretty trivial, but I felt that the crux mantle move was much harder than 5.6 The good news is that it is well protected and you can always yank on something to get through the mantle.
This ascent is somewhat of an exercise in route finding. I will give general description here, but you have to sort of work some of it out as you go. Start by getting into the south bowl on the left side, then work your way up and across ledge systems to gain a ramp on the right side. Climb this ramp (4th or easy 5th class) to more ledges, and work your way up the right side of a big huge fin that sort of splits the bowl. Continue up drainage to a big ledge that cuts back right across the wall. Cross the ledge all the way over and around the corner to get to the one pitch of real climbing. You should be able to spot bolt or pin to identify the pitch once you get over there. A section of 5.6 climbing leads to the crux mantle move next to a bolt. A long sling might be hanging down from the two bolt anchor above to help out.
Once you're at the anchor, it's pretty much hiking to the top from there. The summit of Courthouse is straight up the hill south from the anchor. There's a register you can sign (needs more paper) under a cairn.
After topping out, reverse your steps, make one rap off the two-bolt anchor and then continue reversing back to the parking lot.
This ascent is somewhat of an exercise in route finding. I will give general description here, but you have to sort of work some of it out as you go. Start by getting into the south bowl on the left side, then work your way up and across ledge systems to gain a ramp on the right side. Climb this ramp (4th or easy 5th class) to more ledges, and work your way up the right side of a big huge fin that sort of splits the bowl. Continue up drainage to a big ledge that cuts back right across the wall. Cross the ledge all the way over and around the corner to get to the one pitch of real climbing. You should be able to spot bolt or pin to identify the pitch once you get over there. A section of 5.6 climbing leads to the crux mantle move next to a bolt. A long sling might be hanging down from the two bolt anchor above to help out.
Once you're at the anchor, it's pretty much hiking to the top from there. The summit of Courthouse is straight up the hill south from the anchor. There's a register you can sign (needs more paper) under a cairn.
After topping out, reverse your steps, make one rap off the two-bolt anchor and then continue reversing back to the parking lot.
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