Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1974
Page Views: 1,825 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.


Just right of Roofing Company.


This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.

Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.

1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.

2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.

~Susan Feb 16, 2007
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route! Feb 16, 2007
Darren D.
Darren D.  
A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation. Apr 12, 2007
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
Insanely fun with deep fist jams and thoughtful footwork. Looks way harder than it is.

After topping out the roof on Monkey Business and belaying up your follower, wander over to the far right side of the ledge and hop aboard the 2nd bolt of The Maw. Makes for a diverse 2-pitch outing I like to call Monkey's Maw. Jan 17, 2017
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Also known, long ago, as the "Wage Ceiling". Mar 16, 2017
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
There's now a rope (in good condition yet) slung around a boulder above Roofing Company, with a quick-link to rap from. It's very easy to get there from the ledge atop Monkey Business -- just look off to the left after you pull the lip on Monkey Bus. Dec 4, 2018
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
This route is certainly harder than advertised (5.8). It's nearly as hard as Roofing Company, and at least as hard as Super Roof (5.9) in Steve Canyon. Granted, there are only 2 or 3 moves here that are hard. But if you don't have big enough hands for fist-jamming, you're going to struggle. The feet are polished, which adds to the insecurity. 6 days ago