Mountain Project Logo

Routes in SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)

Maw, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Monkey Business T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paw, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Psychocandy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Between the Eyes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roast Leg of Chair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Roofing Company T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Line Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1974
Page Views: 1,674 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.

Location

Just right of Roofing Company.

Protection

This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Also known, long ago, as the "Wage Ceiling". Mar 16, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Insanely fun with deep fist jams and thoughtful footwork. Looks way harder than it is.

After topping out the roof on Monkey Business and belaying up your follower, wander over to the far right side of the ledge and hop aboard the 2nd bolt of The Maw. Makes for a diverse 2-pitch outing I like to call Monkey's Maw. Jan 17, 2017
Darren D.
  5.8
Darren D.  
  5.8
A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation. Apr 12, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route! Feb 16, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.

Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.

1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.

2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.

~Susan Feb 16, 2007